explore Australia – Page 7 – Mick & Sue's Aussie Adventure

February 18, 2020

Wave Rock WA

The sun was slipping behind the crest as we caught the wave at Wave Rock.

Leaving Leonora early we travelled south, then west, then south, then east for just under eight hundred kilometres. Beautiful billowy white clouds fluffed up then grew, streaming across the landscape with rain and purple thunderheads. The torrential rain and lightning caught us near Wave Rock washing the red dust off the car and caravan.

As the day drew to an end we thought we would have to return to Wave Rock the next day, but luckily we made it with sunbeams slanting moodily for the camera. We paid the fifteen dollars to park, took some photos, then headed off to stay off-grid in a roadside rest area for the night.

Hopetoun on the coast was a nice surprise and we got a spot in the free 48-hour self-contained park next to the beach. There is no power, toilets, water, and all grey water must be taken away, so collected in our tank.

It was hot and we had several refreshing dips at the beach in the gorgeous clear aqua water that is warmer than the waters we are used to at Port Phillip Bay. We didn’t venture into the water far because of the possibility of sharks.

More thunderstorms gusted across missing us but leaving a bushfire in its wake. We could see the towers of smoke and stayed on alert in case we needed to move. Luckily that didn’t happen and by morning the smoke was clear and the day cooler.

We drove out to nearby Fitzgerald River National Park. The native flora there is stunning. I had never seen a Royal Hakea before and the colours give the appearance of a fire starting at deep red, the orange, yellow, pale yellow, and a variegated head. Many of these bold gaudy shrubs cover the rocky hillsides. When you pause to look closer there are so many varying shapes and colours on show. I clicked away with my camera like a member of the paparazzi.

Wildflowers Fitzgerald River National Park

East Mount Barren beckoned offering a short walk to the lookout at the craggy summit. Off we trotted only to discover a quite difficult rocky track with sections of basic rock climbing. As I scampered up the loose rocks on the steep trail I dared not look back and wondered how I was going to fare going back down.

We saw a goanna on the track who reluctantly wandered off into the scrub as we followed it,

It was well worth the climb as the view from the top is stunning: east to Hopetoun and beyond, and west to more summits of the National Park. A bushfire was still pluming smoke in the distance. I added a beautiful smooth hand-sized pink sparkly piece of granite to the top of the rock cairn. We enjoyed a snack, took some more photos, then took the steep descent back to the carpark.

This walk was perfect in my opinion: beautiful scenery, gorgeous native flora with flowers, some wildlife, a nice clear day that was not hot, a steep ascent with some manageable rock climbing, some interesting rock formations with overhangs and small caves, a summit with areas to rest while taking in the panoramic view.

After three days off-grid our batteries were flat but as soon as daylight appeared the solar power kicked in. It was time to head for Esperance to find a caravan park with showers, power, water, and a laundry.

February 15, 2020February 29, 2020

Goldfields WA

Layers of dust coated the detritus of households from 120 years ago. A bouquet of dried flowers in a dented vase, cooking utensils on shelves, sagging wire beds, wooden tables, hessian covered walls, insect eaten timber floors with cracks for lizards and maybe snakes, all still sheltered under rusty tin roofs.

It was disturbing to walk through the old gold mining ghost town of Gwalia near Leonora in Western Australia. They had all just up and left leaving behind their possessions. It is eerie.

The Sons of Gwalia gold reef was discovered in 1896 by prospectors Carlson, Glendinning, and White and the name Gwalia shows their Welsh heritage. This mine prospered in the early 1900’s and was one of Australia’s most successful mines at the time.

The town formed around it on the hill and had a school, swimming pool, and grand hotel. The township enjoyed picnics, fancy dress balls, croquet, tennis, and had parties that can be seen in photographs in the museum today. The museum holds a lot to see and learn.

The gold mine closed in 1963 and by 1964 Gwalia was a ghost town. In 2010 the Leonora Shire acquired the mine with upgrades completed last year. Today the huge super pit sits alongside the old town; it begins where the green lawn of the homestead finishes falling way down a cliff into a bottomless hole.

Leonora is right up into the Western Australian desert area and we came here so that Mick could try his luck at gold prospecting. If you ever come to this area you must visit the ghost town at Gwalia and the museum. They are incredible artefacts of a recent living history.

Leonora has a small population. It was a hot day when we arrived and parked in the main street. Everything has a patina of red dust. We walked to the information centre and library which is very nice and the lady there was immensely helpful and friendly.

The town appeared busy. The police station is central with several 4WD vehicles doing the rounds. Mine cars and road trains buzz about all day. An airport has daily services to the town. The caravan park has permanent residents, and miners staying for a stint. The local swimming pool is beautiful under shade cloth, pristine and inviting but totally empty of people despite the hot days. The young man at the Mines Department was very helpful and provided Mick with some maps and explained some of the notations. It felt like a friendly town.

Going inland away from the coast we have seen one big industrial mining project after another. These are ‘super pits’ with all the big boy toys. The roads are great because the road trains need them to be.

Our stay in Kalgoorlie was not pleasant. The town has a bad vibe that seeped into both of our moods. Mick was unsuccessful trying to find the places he could fossick, despite going to the Mines Department, and talking to others. A friend of a relative was helpful but out of town. The guy at the Mines department not helpful at all. A guy in the gold shop was just short of rude. The main street is full of gorgeous old buildings showing a once prosperous past, but there appears to be no pride in their upkeep or history.

February 10, 2020

Nullarbor – no trees

‘Nullarbor’ means no trees which is obvious when you think about it. And although there are trees in the 1,200 kilometres of the plain as you cross it, there is a distinct place where the native bushland ends and the Nullarbor begins. That place is just east of the Nullarbor Roadhouse, where the Yalata Aboriginal Land ends.

We left Ceduna early on a clear calm morning. Ahead of us were three hundred kilometres to the Nullarbor Roadhouse and five hundred kilometres to the Western Australian border. For the first couple of hundred kilometres the land is like a gorgeous pristine native parkland with small undulations.

Our first stop was at the Nullarbor Roadhouse. The first thing I saw as I got out of the car was a young dingo walking close to me. A truckie had just got out of a road train full of sheep and for a moment I thought it might be his dog. But no, it was a wild dingo. A worker told me there were three young dingos hanging around the roadhouse.

Mick and Sues at the Nullarbor Roadhouse

We took the ubiquitous photos that everyone takes, ate our fruit and vegetables in the caravan ready for the quarantine check at the border crossing, and filled up with fuel. We had already given our honey and a big bag of potatoes to a young farmer and his family who we had camped next to at Ceduna.

We stopped to gaze in awe at the cliffs at the edge of Australia on the Great Australian Bight. A couple of lizards popped their heads out from under a sign there. At some point well before the border our phones went back by 2 ½ hours as we crossed an invisible timezone.

At the border we were met with a large covered building with boom gates and stop signs. An official asked us some questions and then inspected the car and the caravan including all the cupboards for any fruit, vegetables, honey, and other prohibited items. We were all clear and so pressed on to Eucla.

Down an escarpment there was a distinct change of flora, and still no visible fauna despite the warning signs. A mountain range on the northerly side of the road provided a repeating pattern of bluffs in the distance. As we passed a bluff, a new one would appear in the hazy distance. This went on for kilometres.

Cocklebiddy Roadhouse was the place we chose to stay overnight parked on the gravel with a token for a short shower. It is a fuel stop with a bar, restaurant, cabins, airstip, two wedgetail eagles in a large aviary, and a loud generator that operates continually.

The next morning, we were back on the road by 6am. It was overcast and warm. We headed for Norseman which is at the western end of the Nullarbor Plain and about 440 kilometres from Cocklebiddy.

The landscape was once again like a lovely parkland with changing varieties of eucalypts, bushes, and spiky grasses. The longest stretch of straight road begins after Caiguna and stretches into the distance for 150 kilometres. We saw many wild wedgetail eagles near the road and perched in the trees.

Once again, the landscape changes to empty barren white rocks under a grey overcast sky. Then the western woodlands appear with more mature eucalypts and red dirt. At Balladonia the recent bushfire was obvious as the trees and ground were black. The road had been closed for about a week stranding travelers and truckies. The roadhouse was lucky to be saved. A piece of the old skylab is displayed proudly on the roof of the building. And then, disturbingly, bushfire smoke appeared and grew thicker on the highway. We tried to tune in for updates but there was no phone or radio service. Eventually we left the smoke behind us. We guess it was smoldering stumps.

We arrived in Norseman in time for lunch and then headed north to Kalgoorlie. Norseman was named after a horse who apparently pawed the ground and uncovered some gold, thus starting the gold rush of the 1890’s in the area.

We passed the time in the car by listening to ABC Conversations podcast episodes in the morning, and then music on my iPod in the afternoons.

February 8, 2020February 8, 2020

Eyre Peninsula

Is this Mars? It could almost be, if you take away the few scrubby trees, a couple of sheep, and the roads, vehicles, power lines, wind turbines and oxygen. Hmmm.

Driving through Port Augusta and to Whyalla shrinks everything into an epic landscape. Dark red rocky mountains inhospitable to everything except mining for iron ore minerals; the port at Whyalla a perfect location for the steelworks.

The previous night we stayed at Chinamen’s Creek in the Winninowie Conservation Reserve. It was not on any of our maps, but Mick located it and from the online reviews thought it would be interesting. Not exactly “heaven on earth with crystal clear water”, but it is unique. Mangroves for miles, inlets akin to something you might find in Kakadu minus the crocodiles. Not as many birds as one would expect. In the near distance the rugged Southern Flinders Ranges stand in a protective rim. There is silence apart from the click-clack of freight trains near the highway.

The knowledgeable self-appointed camp manager lives in a ramshackle house at the camp. He likes to chat, find out who you are, and tell you much on many topics. He takes notes.

Our boots sank into the deep mud as we walked along the tidal flats with the sweet toxic fragrance of the yellow mangrove flowers sticking in my throat and giving me a headache. We had a dip in the briny pools of the inlet waters, while a few other people explored in kayaks.

Across onto the Eyre Peninsula we drove to Port Lincoln stopping at the little towns along the coast. We stayed overnight which was one night too long. Pretty Coffin Bay would have been a better option we discovered the next day.

So once again along the coast heading north-west, we stopped in at the little towns. This coast is rugged and wild along the cliffs, but tranquil and inviting in the bays. It is perfect for fishing, boating, surfing and snorkeling. We were not prepared to stay long.

We drove on to Ceduna keen to get to W.A. This is the land of the long straight road with not much in between the small country towns. A night in Ceduna was quite enough, and we headed off to The Nullarbor.

February 4, 2020February 4, 2020

Yorke Peninsula

If you like to fish then the Yorke Peninsula is a great place to visit. This seems to be one of the main attractions of this place. Situated between the Gulf St. Vincent and Spencer Gulf the possibilities for sea fishing is vast.

We stayed at Stansbury Caravan Park on the east coast. Our campsite was right next to the beach. Stansbury was once named Oyster Bay and when you walk out into the shallows it is obvious why: Razor Clams appear at low tide in the thousands. You need to wear shoes as they are extremely sharp. There are also oyster farms easily seen further out in the bay.

Stansbury Yorke Peninsula South Australia

The thing to do here is to hunt for crabs: Blue Swimmer Crabs. Mick got the tools and technique tips from one of the old regulars and off he went in the dark coming back with enough for a lovely crab salad for two. The next day we both went out in the shallows and found a few more for the old guy and his wife. The smell of boiling crabs is unique and one I can now identify easily.

Kangaroo Island appears and disappears like a ghost on the distant horizon. We went sightseeing down and across the Peninsula to Edithburgh, Yorketown, Point Turton, and Minlaton. Seeing quite enough of the dry barren windswept fields and small quiet towns we opted out of exploring further south to Marion Bay and Innes National Park.

Back at camp Mick tried some fishing at the pier, while I watched pelicans, dolphins, swans, and windsurfers glide by.

January 31, 2020January 31, 2020

Port Elliot

With the vibration and disturbance of the wet sand the tiny mollusk’s rise up to ‘have a look’ and then burrow down again. These are too small and so we smile and watch them disappear.

Despite our efforts to twist our feet in the sand on the many beaches we visit, we still can’t locate Pipi’s big enough to use as fishing bait. (Cockles here in South Australia).

We spent our first free camp and off-grid experience at The Granites which is just a bitumen carpark next to the expanse of sea and endless beach. A few granite boulders sit in the shallows giving the spot its name. Our systems all worked well, and with just three other vehicles in the carpark it was a gorgeous quiet night with a classic sunset and sleeping with windows open to hear the sea and get the breeze. In the morning the sea had disappeared behind a veil of mist.

Driving further into South Australia along The Coorong was a blue-on-blue experience; with enough water in The Coorong to reflect the clear sky. The dry fields and scrubby trees the only break in the blue immersion.

Port Elliot drew us back as we have fond memories of our last stay here. We opted for the Big4 Caravan Park at the edge of Horseshoe Bay. With families gone back to work and school we hoped to find a spot in this popular campground. It has all the amenities which are clean and well maintained.

One day was 43 degrees and so we spent the day alternating between the shade of our awning and the little cove at the end of our ‘street’. It has underwater rocks and so swimming is not recommended, but the waves were small and so we dived in and out. Floating on the currents with our masks and snorkels we could see different varieties of fish amongst the kelp and rock ledges.

A drive through the rugged hills of the Fleurieu Peninsula took us to Cape Jervis which is the ferry point for Kangaroo Island. We drove on to Second Valley, and Normanville; pretty towns and great beaches, but not much in between. In the cooler months perhaps these ranges are green.

I joined the morning swimmers at Horseshoe Bay one day. It was overcast and the water was grey with minimal visibility. I swam alone for a while, but it is disconcerting to be out in the deep water without being able to see much. As I swam back to shore, I was zapped in the upper arm by a stinger. After the initial sting it didn’t hurt much at all but left a red welt.

From here we will drive north to Adelaide, then across to the Yorke Peninsula.

January 27, 2020January 27, 2020

Nelson on Glenelg

Australia Day Ceremony at Bridge Park Nelson

The flag flew in the breeze at the Australia Day breakfast held on the banks of the Glenelg River at Bridge Park in Nelson. Free breakfast attracted a crowd of locals and visitors. A local woman was awarded with the Citizen of the Year certificate for her contributions to the town. Among other things, she keeps the town gardens tidy. With typical Aussie humility she stated, “I just love weeding.” The rain held off long enough for the celebration and then it chased us all away for a timely close. Mick won a prize in the raffle – a packet of sausages. We’ve put them in the freezer for our Nullarbor crossing.

We weren’t as lucky finding pippies for bait though. At the wild ocean beach, we copied the technique of a large Asian family, shuffling our feet in the wet sand, trying to disturb the pippies as the waves rushed out. I found one tiny pippy. Back at home on the Mornington Peninsula they are easy to find. Mick bought bait from the shop for his fishing expeditions, catching a couple of shining Bream in the green river. (In South Australia pippies are called cockles.)

Kywong Caravan Park is set in a quiet bushland area not on the Glenelg River but easy walking distance. Kangaroos and birds live here. It is a great location for family groups and on this long weekend tribes of kids circle the camp on bikes or play a never-ending game of all-in cricket.

Walking along the bush tracks is peaceful and we inevitably disturb kangaroo and wallaby families. I keep an eye out for koalas but haven’t seen one yet. Our eldest grand-daughter turned three this week and I have been drawing a picture at each place and posting it in the mail. This week I drew one of these pelicans.

Pelicans near the boat ramp Glenelg River Nelson

Soon we will cross into South Australia and I need to confirm the rules about what food is prohibited to take across the border. Is it all fruit and vegetables, or just fruit? I’ll check at the Information Centre.

January 23, 2020January 27, 2020

Not Belfast

Port Fairy is the prettiest town in Victoria in my opinion. Originally named Belfast in a sentimental link to ‘home’, the Irish and English influences of the early settlers are still obvious.

The original old buildings and quaint cottages are still in active use and lovingly looked after. The Caledonian Inn was the first licensed pub in Victoria and is still enjoyed by locals and visitors. The many cottages have lovely gardens with roses flourishing in the volcanic soil.

Situated at the mouth of the Moyne River a rich culture of fishing and sailing abounds. Griffiths Island was once a key location for the whaling industry and whales still visit the bays midyear. The lighthouse is situated out on Griffiths Island where the migratory Mutton birds congregate. The walk out to the lighthouse is a must-do activity when visiting the town.

We lived and worked here from 2010 until 2013 and we built a house here in keeping with the local style. Recently we dropped in and are glad to know that the new owners are very happy with the house, location, and lifestyle.

At nearby Tower Hill a mother emu bailed us up on a trail nervous about protecting her young emu. We walked around the extinct volcano which was identified as a National Park in 1892. The ‘Last Volcano’ sits within the lakes and inner hills and was last active in 5000 BC. We saw emu and one baby emu, koalas and one baby koala, and wallabies.

Even in mid-January you need a coat and beanie here, as it is often cold, windy, rainy and grey and our stay was no different. It is a relief from the hot dry summer with bushfires, but not so great for the summer holiday campers. Feeling brave we donned our wetsuits and snorkels then plunged into the cold water to see what lives in the rocky ledge along the edge of Griffiths Island. There are lots of fish to see amongst the garden of kelp. It was a lovely experience and I hope the first of many on this trip.

January 18, 2020January 18, 2020

The Golden Triangle

The bell struck ten times sounding out across the town and I turned to locate the source. There atop the post office was the bell tower. It filled me with happiness because I love that sound, and contrary to the sentiments of Mark Twain who visited Maryborough and stated that he did not like bells, I think there is a huge lack of town bells across Australia.

Maryborough sits inside The Golden Triangle where gold was found in the 1850’s and since. The heritage buildings of the town are evidence of a rich past. So, while I walked around the town taking photographs of the architecture, Mick went out onto the scrubby goldfields in search of a nugget.

Nearby Talbot is where some of Mick’s ancestors made and lost their fortune through their pursuit of gold and celebratory drinks afterward. At one point they owned three houses in the town. I guess that the gold fever must be in his genes. These days though detectors are used which many presume can find the nuggets still hidden.

Old architectural buildings have a charm that is attractive. I think it resides in the grandeur, symmetry, muted colours of natural materials, sculptured artistic details, elegant signage, columns and frames. They bring an interesting profile to the skyline.

I enjoyed looking at the old buildings: The Central Goldfields Shire Offices was formerly The School of Mines; the original Public Library sadly now houses some other boring organization; the local swimming pool has a lovely Art Deco entrance; the football ground stadium at Princes Park is another grand building; the Post Office sits proudly on the hill well placed for the town bell; and gorgeous old pubs sit on the street corners adorned with nymphs and sculptures.

The Maryborough Railway Station stands out as a major place of interest and has an interesting history. Its grandeur seemingly misplaced for a small country town was supposedly meant to be built in Maryborough Queensland. This myth persists despite efforts from locals to dispute this. It is a beautiful building and worth a visit. It is a functioning railway station with daily train trips.

Victoria Lake sits beside the football ground and swimming pool at Princes Park. Our caravan site was just alongside the lake where birds, ducks, waterfowl, one neurotic swan, and turtles live. Each day I walked the circuit trying to spot the turtle noses as they peaked up from the water.

The hot days and smoke haze were broken by a thunderstorm with impressive lightning and much needed rain, especially to the bushfires in other parts of the state.

Mick joined in with the Maryborough Park Run group and I did Yoga with Adriene in the caravan and walked around the lake.