Uncategorized – Mick & Sue's Aussie Adventure

July 13, 2023August 20, 2023

Alice and the Devil’s Marbles

Our next booking after Katherine was behind the Devil’s Marbles hotel; 808 km away. So we knew we were in for a big day travelling south on the Stuart Highway.

We had stopped at Bitter Springs and Mataranka on our last trip so felt no need to revisit there. Also there were reports of an estuarine crocodile at Bitter Springs.

All of the small towns and roadside stops were busy with caravans everywhere. Plus a constant stream of caravans travelling north from South Australia for their school holiday break.

We drove through Tennant Creek and it is sad to see another town with abandoned boarded up shops and businesses.

We were surprised to see at the Devil’s Marbles hotel fifty or more caravans parked in the roadside stop. This used to be the truck parking area, but it appeared to now be a free camp.

About another thirty caravans were parked behind the hotel in the paid area and we were happy to be there.

The outside of the hotel looks shabby and covered in cobwebs, and has the look of being abandoned, but open the door and it was full of people sitting, drinking, and watching the TV. We had dinner there.

Beer o’clock at the Devil’s Marbles Hotel

Unfortunately the carnival was on the road travelling north and stayed overnight just outside the paid campground. They played loud music, shouted, and revelled until about 2am when someone went and told them to be quiet.

The next morning we drove the 11 kilometres back to the Devil’s Marbles. It was lovely to walk around these giant ovoid boulders in the fresh morning air.

From the Devil’s Marbles Hotel we drive south on a piece of Australia’s figure of 8 highway system that we have never been on before. And at the turnoff to Gemtree at the Plenty Highway we close that loop too. Although the map of the route looks more like a Kelpie chasing a tennis ball than a smooth clean infinity symbol.

Alice Springs is in a beautiful location ringed by the desert ranges. And so unique being in the centre of Australia.

The Discovery park there is big with excellent amenities and a great swimming pool setup for kids. It was too cold for us to take a dip.

Swimming pools at Discovery Parks Alice Springs

Mick had the car serviced and they replaced the dusty air filters. The chip in the windscreen has not worsened and will wait until we get home.

The nights here in Alice are cold and we put on the heater inside the camper.

Australian Ringneck Parrots scooted about the campground with other birds, looking for a feed.

I remember the Todd Mall as a lovely shopping precinct back in 1994 when we last visited. Unfortunately now most shops are closed and boarded up and mobs of restless aboriginals gather there all day looking miserable.

At the Tourist Information Centre the “customer service” man was appallingly rude and terse. He needs a holiday!

On our last night we are woken at about 2am by a car speeding along a road nearby. Then we hear a crash, then silence, then the horn blasted a couple of times, then quiet. We hope the person (AKA Idiot) got out unscathed. As we are leaving the next morning we see the dark sedan wrecked and abandoned against the large boulders in the centre of the roundabout. Mick wonders how long that will remain there.

We are happy to leave this pretty but unhappy place. Our next stop is Watarrka (Kings Canyon) National Park. We visited there in 1994 with our three children.

July 8, 2023July 8, 2023

Closing the Loop at Katherine

Finally we close the loop at Katherine Northern Territory, completing our Big Lap of Australia.

What we started in December 2019 we achieved in July of 2023. This was not the Big Lap we had planned and plotted on WikiCamps. The global pandemic was the first interruption, then the delays with changing our rig. Life took over and we paused.

The Breeze Caravan Park in Cossack on the outskirts of Katherine is lovely with shady trees, plenty of space, and a good sized swimming pool. We stayed here twice in 2020. I love the warm weather and we sleep with the canvas windows open.

This time it is much busier. They have strict rules about dogs in the park which is sensible. Unfortunately there is a trend with kids and whip-cracking. What is going on? Parents just smile on encouragingly while all the native birds get scared witless and scoot off. I have heard some caravan parks have banned whip-cracking. Not here sadly.

We go into town where Mick gets a haircut. We go to the library to access some MyGov documents.

Last time we did the tour at Katherine Gorge and we decide not to do it this time. We hear it is very busy.

We drive out to Edith Falls. We did visit here last time but it is such a gorgeous place we wanted to go again. There is a small campground there that is hard to get into.

There is a large swimming hole near to the campground and a picturesque waterfall. We don’t swim there though, instead walking the 1.6 kilometres through the beautiful native bush land with Kapok trees full of yellow blooms.

We arrive at the top pool ready for a swim. People are already there enjoying the water or sunning on the rocks. The swim in the pool and under the waterfall is glorious. I am happy. It is such a beautiful unspoilt natural place.

As we walk back many people are walking in, noodles in hand. The car park is full, and more cars stream in as we drive back to the highway.

Back at camp, I prepare food for dinner and tomorrows long trip south. Mick goes fishing nearby in the Katherine River.

July 6, 2023July 7, 2023

Kununurra

A blood moon at twilight and a squadron of stealth bats fly overhead; thousands of flying foxes out on their nightly raid.

Under the tree canopies smaller bats flit about after insects.

We stalk the lake edge with torches in hand looking to catch the red eyes of crocs. We see many. We find one close to the low bank. I take a photo in the moonlight and it flips violently seeking refuge under the water lilies. Hearts beating faster we walk back along the moonlit grassy bank hearing splashes in the dark water, red eyes like traffic warning lights.

Kununurra is a surprising town. The waterways from the Ord River are significant and provide respite, produce, and a lifestyle. Here just on the outskirts of town they grow sandalwood, mangoes, bananas, corn, sorghum, and other crops.

The airport is busy with air traffic on the go daily.

At the moment the Fitzroy Crossing is closed once again so there is no route to Perth. Travellers reassess their travel plans. It is school holidays and families are stuck, so there are caravans everywhere.

Next week is the annual Kununurra show and there are caravans parked at the overflow site at the Showgrounds and they need to move. But to where?

We drive out to the famous Ivanhoe Crossing for a look. That too is closed to traffic. We knew this and had no plans to cross it anyway just for that IG photo. #ivanhoecrossing

Out on the curved wall stand two aboriginal men fishing with hand lines bracing themselves in the treacherous current. There are supposedly big estuarine crocs here too. We see them catch a good sized fish that they keep. Other people try their luck using rods from the safety of the bank, but no luck there.

Mick tries his luck in the lower Ord River on two mornings. Each day he catches a small Barramundi, too small to keep, but his first. He releases them back to the river so they have a chance to grow.

Mick caught this Barramundi in the Ord River

On our last day we drive out to Molly Spring. There is a small waterfall and a small nice swimming hole. A family is there enjoying the water. We are told there was a snake swimming in the waterhole and had now disappeared into the bank somewhere. After our experiences in the big waterfalls along the Gibb River Road we feel no need to swim here.

The next day we pack up and head towards the Northern Territory border. We have a booking at Katherine in the same caravan park we stayed at last trip in 2020.

Crossing the border into the Northern Territory

We had eaten all of our fruit and vegetables but there is no quarantine stop going this way.

July 3, 2023

Why Wyndham?

We drive further north heading for Wyndham with no preconceived ideas in our minds. Instead of heading south to our planned stay at the Purnululu National Park (the Bungle Bungles) we decide to visit Wyndham. I am disappointed because it is a place that has fascinated me for many years.

Wyndham lies at the delta where five major rivers meet: the Ord, Pentecost, Durack, King, and Forest. Although on the coast, the sea is beyond the horizon. There is an industrial port that still operates, including being a port for Kimberley cruise boats.

The town is a neglected and derelict place where dogs wander about the streets and fight in packs at night, we discover. Houses are in ruins with broken windows and walls, but still homes for the locals.

The caravan park though is one of the nicest we have stayed at. It has tall shady trees and green grass with generous campsites. It is well organised and managed. There is a swimming pool, a big Boab tree, and lots of birds. We see brown kites, blue winged kookaburras, barking owls, wattle birds, and the notorious “screaming woman” curlew.

The rain persists and this town that has the title of the hottest town in Australia, goes into a rare cold snap.

We look at the port, the old town, the jetty, and drive up The Bastion for panoramic views of the region. The colours are amazing even under low grey skies.

Mick wanders over to the football oval, home of The Crocs, and watches the teams of enthusiastic aboriginal players run around on the thick green grass in the rain.

Finally the rain stops and we try to dry out our clothes and the canvas tent top. Luckily we stayed warm and dry inside. The Dingo has proven itself in cold, wet, and windy conditions.

Mick cleans the car and camper trailer trying to get rid of the red dirt.

Next we go to Kununurra for three nights.

July 3, 2023July 3, 2023

The Gibb Day 9, 10, 11 – El Questro

After leaving Home Valley Station it is just nine kilometres of dirt road and we arrive at the wide but shallow Pentecost River, crossing safely.

There is sealed road so Mick pumps up the tyres. El Questro is not far and the drive in is another nine kilometres of dirt with two creek crossings and a deeper and narrower crossing of the Pentecost River.

The camp here is big and full with lots of caravans and families. The campsites are small and we fit snugly beside five other campers.

Planes and helicopters buzz in and out for expensive sightseeing tours.

We drive to Kununurra for supplies and it too is busy with people and caravans everywhere. I think by closing the Gibb River Road it has caused a logjam of travellers all waiting in hope the road will reopen. We feel lucky to have finished it in time.

Our planned trip to Purnululu National Park (the Bungle Bungles) has been cancelled for the same reason; road closed due to the unseasonal rain. So far there has been hardly any rain; just a light drizzle on our last night at Home Valley station.

Our morning bath was a soak in the beautiful thermal waters of Zebedee Springs amidst the Livitonia Palms. We get there early because it fills with people quickly and it is only a small area. It’s such a peaceful and rejuvenating way to start the day.

We enjoy a drink and pizza at the Swinging Arm Bar at El Questro with the @ville2vans friends chatting about waterfalls, walks, family, friends, and the “good old days” in Belgrave South.

On our second day we drive a short way then walk the Amalia Gorge trail. It is a lovely walk up a dry creek bed then scaling up and around rocky sections.

Red cliffs rise above and the creek gorge is filled with green trees, palms, and wildflowers.

Halfway along are two small waterfalls and two inviting swimming holes and we have a dip in both.

We continue on and the rock climbing gets a little more challenging. It is worth the effort and we arrive at the high single drop waterfall of Amalia Gorge. At the base is a large swimming hole. We are content sitting on the rocks in the sunshine. The walk back is just as nice.

Once again we meet the @ville2vans crew at the Swinging Arm Bar for Happy Hour. They had been to Emma Gorge and we compared experiences.

Jenny Sue and Sandy at The Swinging Arm Bar

It finally rains on our last day at El Questro. There is a mass exodus in the morning as travellers file out. I do the laundry and hang the clothes under our awning. We enjoy lunch at the Steakhouse restaurant.

It rains all night and the next day we pack up wet canvas and notice the Pentecost River has risen a little.

We head for Wyndham instead of Purnululu NP. So ends our Gibb River Road adventure. The road is still closed at the moment.

June 29, 2023June 29, 2023

The Gibb Day 7 & 8 – Home Valley Station

We opted to stay three nights at Home Valley Station based on the description on WikiCamps and that would fit with our booking at El Questro.

Mick wanted a powered site because our refrigerator was not charging well enough using the solar panels.

Our campsite is dismal amid ants nests and my skin itches from unseen midges. Flying foxes fill the night air, and toads live in the toilets and sinks. A huge stick insect visits the amenities.

Rain is forecast and the whole region goes into panic mode closing The Gibb River Road. We decide to wait it out and we get a few drizzly showers on the last night. Not even enough to make puddles.

We swim in the over chlorinated pool, read, and walk one of the trails. We get a bit lost on one trail then finally make it to Baldy’s Hill that has panoramic views across to the Cockburn Ranges and the Pentecost River. I take photos of wildflowers with my SLR camera.

The walking trail booklet is a glossy masterpiece but unfortunately most of the walks are closed due to lack of maintenance and the office lady neglected to tell me this when she handed it to me.

Getting lost in the tall grass at Home Valley Station with rain threatening

It appears that this station campground was once fantastic and has now fallen into neglect and disrepair. I hope they fix it as it is in a great location. I would not recommend it at the moment.

June 27, 2023

The Gibb Day 6 – Home Valley Station

Dingos howled at dawn as I lay awake in bed scratching the itchy midge bites on my legs.

The caravanners packed up early and were gone well before us. Except for naughty Pippa in a neighbouring caravan who was having a tantrum. Dad apologised to us for his son’s noise.

We packed up and drove up to the homestead for the legendary scones with jam and cream. The beautiful cafe is surrounded by tall shady trees and the birds flitted about.

Ellenbrae Station has certainly been the friendliest and most well managed and maintained station stay so far.

Back on the dirt road it deteriorated yet again. I think this is the worst section of the road. The red dirt replaced by a grey rock surface, obviously laid to fill the holes and corrugations. But the large rocks prove to be nasty and we stopped to check on a few travellers with flat damaged tyres. Most people are prepared with spares and tyre repair kits. Still it is important to stop in case anyone needs help.

Sometimes driving at 13 km/hr across corrugations that shook the car, trailer, and occupants. We crossed a few more creeks and the Durack River.

Eventually we emerged on a plateau with views across the plains to the Pentecost River and Cockburn Ranges. This craggy ridge line akin to the badlands in the USA that we see in movies.

We arrive at Home Valley Station that boasts about its amenities on WikiCamps but falls short of the hype.

The Pentecost River is just five kilometres within the station and after setting up camp we drive out for a look. People were fishing the wide tidal river knowing big salty crocs were in the muddy waters.

Back at camp we have a dip in the pool then later buy overpriced beer at the Dusty Bar with the @ville2vans friends who arrived here the same day. We all agreed this last section of road has been the worst.

Flying foxes shrieked and darted about in the warm night air.

We plan to stay here for three nights so we can recharge the batteries for our refrigerator, do some clothes washing, and Mick will fish.

We are almost at the end of the Gibb River Road. Just the Pentecost River to cross when we leave here on Wednesday bound for nearby El Questro.

We travelled 114 kilometres slowly.

June 27, 2023

The Gibb Day 5 – Galvans Gorge and Ellenbrae Station

Early the next morning we packed up, filled our water tank at Mt Barnett Roadhouse and backtracked fifteen kilometres to Galvans Gorge.

An easy ten minute walk in from the road revealed a little oasis with beautiful waterfall and swimming hole amidst the orange cliffs, white gums, and pandanus trees.

The water in the pool was the clearest yet and we swam across the fresh green pool to sit on a rock ledge under the fall.

Susan sitting under the waterfall at Galvans Gorge

Once again refreshed we left as the next troupe of people arrived to enjoy this unique natural beauty spot.

We refilled with fuel at Mt Barnett Roadhouse, $2.93 per litre, bought some food, then headed towards Ellenbrae Station.

The road got worse. More corrugations, more dips and holes. And since this road can be travelled in either direction, at this midway point we encountered many vehicles in both directions; dust plumes indicating their approach, then blinded momentarily in the dust cloud aftermath. The idiots from the previous night overtook us at speed. We wished them “well”.

We saw another black coloured snake on one of the many floodways. And we crossed several more creeks.

At Ellenbrae Station there is a choice between two camps. After checking which camp the idiots had chosen for the night, we chose the other. Fortunately it looked like the nicer campground with grass, shady trees, and a waterhole and creek nearby.

The amenities were rustic and quaint and I enjoyed the shower.

Amenities block at Ellenbrae Station campground

Soon the campground filled with lots of travellers especially families with kids, towing caravans. Most camps enjoyed campfires that night. Some kids had whips and the whip cracking drew a crowd of other kids. They don’t teach that at school!

The camp was quiet and we slept well after travelling 224 kilometres.

June 27, 2023August 20, 2023

The Gibb Day 4 – Manning Gorge

It is a unique experience to walk out to the Manning Gorge from the campground.

At the river there are two blue plastic tubs for walkers to put their gear into, then swim it across the forty or so metres to the other side. Then you put on your walking shoes and clothes then hike out up the gentle hill along a poorly marked track. It is a five kilometre return walk but feels more like seven.

We set out in the cool morning air with the sun shining through the tall beige spiky grasses. Wildflowers were everywhere, especially a small pompom flower in pink and cream.

The views from the top of the ridge were gorgeous with a flat plateau in the distance that broke into chasms and lowlands.

View from the plateau near Manning Gorge, Gibb River Road, Western Australia

The rock scramble down to the gorge is a challenge for old knees but worth the effort, as the Manning Gorge and waterfall are awesome. Cliffs of bright orange and dark grey were illuminated with the morning sun.

A few other keen single walkers beat us to the pool, but they left and we had the swimming hole to ourselves for a little while.

The water was clear, dark, deep, and refreshing after the walk in. We swam under the waterfall.

One of life’s special pleasures for me (and probably many others) is to glide out from a waterfall on my back, looking up at the water falling, as I rest in a star-shaped float. So sublime and it puts all things into perspective; the insignificance of me.

We did not linger and as we climbed up and over the rocks out of the gorge, many others arrived carrying packs, colourful noodles, and even babies in slings.

Through the tall beige grasses, people asked us “Are we halfway yet?” The return swim across the river was a welcome relief after the walk.

Back at camp we rested then returned to the river for another swim and laze on the rocks.

Our second night at the Manning Gorge campground was spoilt by a neighbouring group of loud, drunk, uncouth, and stupid young men who ranted loudly and obscenely into the dark hours, while the rest of the campers tried to sleep. Eventually they became comatose and we slept.

We did not travel in our car on this day.

June 27, 2023August 20, 2023

The Gibb Day 3 – Bell Gorge and Manning Gorge

The drive from Silent Grove campground to Bell Gorge (Dalmanyi) is about ten kilometres along a flat bumpy track that winds through the scrub with another three creek crossings.

We were first to arrive in the car park, then we walked the rocky well- marked trail for about two kilometres down to the gorge.

Beautiful Bell waterfall, we think, is The Perfect Waterfall. We crossed the fast flowing Bell River then up and over the escarpment, then rock scrambling to the swimming hole below the waterfall.

The water was dark grey, fairly clear, and refreshingly cool, not cold at all. We had the pool to ourselves until we saw the next pair of trekkers peering down from above the waterfall.

Back at the river above the falls I luxuriated in a clear fast flowing spa pool. By then lots of other people had arrived carrying their colourful noodles .

Back at Silent Grove we packed up and drove to the Imintji Community Store for fuel which was $2.80 per litre.

We travelled on the dirt ‘comfortably’ at about 70 km/hr over this section. The ranges were interesting and pretty. One roadside cutting signposted as “Profile of Queen Victoria”.

Our next stop was at Mount Barnett Station Roadhouse. We paid at the busy shop to stay two nights at Manning Gorge campground.

The campground was fairly busy with lots of caravans and camper trailers. We set upon the dust under the scrappy trees then walked to have a look at the Manning River. Our friends @ville2vans were there with their caravans happy to have made it this far.

Orange dust and orange shorts at Manning Gorge campground

The river was a welcome relief after the heat and dust of the road and we had a dip then sat on the rocks in the middle of the stream taking in the scene and letting the little fish exfoliate our feet, while watching the swimmers and trekkers. (I’ll explain this in the next post for Day 4)

That evening we paid $25 each to attend a dance performance by the local aboriginal children. It was held in a sandy part of the dry river bed. With recorded audio of singing, sticks, and didgeridoo the children ran their routines while an aboriginal lady explained the dances over a microphone.

The performances went on and on repeating the same dances and so after about 1 1/2 hours we left while the dancing continued into the night.

We had travelled 115 kms and slept well.