Stories from Mick & Sue’s Aussie Adventure

Mick and I set out on our exploration of Australia in December 2019 and visited all states except for the Australian Capital Territory and Tasmania. During this time when the pandemic caused havoc around the world, we hopped borders when we could. After seventeen months living in our caravan we were ready to head home.

Here are the stories from our adventure.

  1. The Journey Begins 23/4/2019
  2. Styling the house 21/8/2019
  3. House sold 27/9/2019
  4. Our new home on wheels 10/10/2019
  5. Halls Gap Victoria – Spring 2019 23/10/2019
  6. From House to Caravan 6/12/2019
  7. The Greatest Great Vic Bike Ride 6/12/2019
  8. Rosebud – Our Hometown 10/12/2019
  9. First Month in the Caravan 27/12/2019
  10. Leaving Rosebud 2/1/2020
  11. Staying with Family in Horsham 2/1/2020
  12. Minding Archie 9/1/2020
  13. The Golden Triangle 18/1/2020
  14. Not Belfast 23/1/2020
  15. Nelson on Glenelg 27/1/2020
  16. Port Elliot 31/1/2020
  17. Yorke Peninsula 4/2/2020
  18. Eyre Peninsula 8/2/2020
  19. Nullarbor – No Trees 10/2/2020
  20. Goldfields WA 15/2/2020
  21. Wave Rock WA 18/2/2020
  22. Esperance and Lucky Bay WA 26/2/2020
  23. A Season of Caravan Life 29/2/2020
  24. Southern Forests WA 3/3/2020
  25. Swings and Roundabouts 5/3/2020
  26. Peppermint Grove Beach 9/3/2020
  27. Perth 11/3/2020
  28. Smile Like a Quokka 13/3/2020
  29. Coogee Beach WA 18/3/2020
  30. Cue WA 19/3/2020
  31. Dash for the Border 27/3/2020
  32. Lockdown at Riverside Part One 26/4/2020
  33. Lockdown at Riverside Part Two 10/6/2020
  34. Heading North 24/6/2020
  35. Brunswick Heads 24/6/2020
  36. Evans Head 13/7/2020
  37. North into Queensland 20/7/2020
  38. Sapphire QLD 24/7/2020
  39. Longreach QLD 31/7/2020
  40. Tourist Traps in the Land of the Dinosaurs QLD 31/7/2020
  41. Corella Dam QLD 31/7/2020
  42. Into the Northern Territory 31/7/2020
  43. The Devil’s Marbles NT 31/7/2020
  44. Mataranka NT 31/7/2020
  45. Katherine NT 6/8/2020
  46. Litchfield National Park NT 6/8/2020
  47. Darwin NT 11/8/2020
  48. Kakadu National Park NT 17/8/2020
  49. Katherine and Edith NT 25/8/2020
  50. Road Trip Central Australia 30/8/2020
  51. Townsville QLD 3/9/2020
  52. Port Douglas QLD 9/9/2020
  53. Daintree River and Cape Tribulation QLD 20/9/2020
  54. Cape York Peninsula QLD 30/9/2020
  55. Cooktown QLD 7/10/2020
  56. Charters Towers QLD 17/10/2020
  57. Cape Hillsborough QLD 18/10/2020
  58. Agnes Water and 1770 QLD 22/10/2020
  59. Noosa QLD 29/10/2020
  60. Caloundra QLD 5/11/2020
  61. Lightning Ridge NSW 15/11/2020
  62. Mudgee NSW 15/11/2020
  63. Sapphire Coast NSW 26/11/2020
  64. Gippsland VIC 9/12/2020
  65. Statistics from One Year of Caravanning in 2020 15/12/2020
  66. Caravanning In Real Life #IRL 24/12/2020
  67. Mornington Peninsula VIC 31/1/2021
  68. The Wimmera VIC 5/2/2021
  69. Murray River VIC 14/2/2021
  70. Further Along the Murray River VIC 27/2/2021
  71. Old Stories at Tallangatta VIC 4/3/2021
  72. Myrtleford and Surrounds VIC 7/3/2021
  73. Chiltern VIC 13/3/2021
  74. Acheron VIC 20/3/2021
  75. Central Victoria 29/3/2021
  76. Back into South Australia 27/4/2021
  77. Stranded in Outback South Australia 1/5/2021
  78. We Wake in Fright in South Australia 8/5/2021
  79. Home Sky 4/6/2021
Mick and Sue’s Aussie Adventure Trip Map

Home Sky

The window of my new home office faces west. Above the street, treetops, and roofs, the clouds approach with grey, white, apricot, and raspberry hues. I am familiar with the weather patterns here at our home on the Mornington Peninsula.

Other skies enchanted us on our travels. We have seen sunrises and sunsets, star maps, and swirling clouds. Weather patterns unfamiliar to us; the strangeness reminding us that is not our home.

Meeting other travelers, they would proudly say they had been on the road for two years, or eight years, or were permanent travelers. This was not for us. We felt it in our hearts. We like a home, a base, being near to family and friends, being part of a community. Eighteen months was enough for us.

Mornington Peninsula VIC

When our caravan broke down in the desert, we had already decided on the end date for this trip, just one more month. So, we thought a quick drive up to Uluru and back would be a nice way to end. It was not to be. We have been to Uluru many years ago when our children were young, and I am glad I hold the memory of that visit in my heart.

What if our breakdown and required repairs had happened at the start of our trip, or in the middle? What do full time travelers do then? We are lucky we were at the end.

So, we unpacked all of our stuff from the storage unit, and happily moved into our townhouse. We love the walks to the beach every day. In my kitchen I have been cooking things I have not been able to do in the caravan. I have been practicing playing my piano. Mick has been fitting shelves and running and cycling. Like everyone else in Melbourne we are in lockdown but that is okay, and we have had our first vaccination.

Happy to be home after 18 months travelling

I plan to stop writing this blog now that our trip is over. Perhaps I will write just one future final instalment when our caravan is eventually repaired, and we can bring it home from South Australia.

Happy travels to all those exploring Australia in 2021 and beyond. My one bit of advice is to use the Wikicamps app as this has been the most help while on the road.

We Wake in Fright in South Australia

Our skin itched all night and we had both slept badly. Were there really bed bugs? I am sure a mouse crept around searching our bags for food; I could hear rustling sounds now and then. The room smelled bad, the old appliances were all on the blink, the refrigerator sounded like a truck, the electric kettle continued to run even though it was turned off, the TV sounded like it was underwater, and the shower was just a trickle.

Our previous accommodation at the Mud Hut Motel was fine but fully booked after we had already stayed for four nights. Now the insurance company had moved us to the Backpackers.

Coober Pedy South Australia

I made a chicken Thai green curry in the communal kitchen and we shared it with a French backpacker who was sorting through buckets of rocks searching for that elusive opal. We gave the rest of our food that was still okay, to the guy who ran the backpacker’s and he reacted like it was Christmas.

We could not stay another night. What do you do in Coober Pedy if you are not looking at rocks hoping to find opals? Drink! We had wine at the Desert Cave Hotel, wine at the Big Winch, Bourbon and cokes at another pub, and beer at the backpackers. I kept thinking about that Australian Classic book and movie “Wake in Fright”. Was there to be no escape? And of all the beautiful places we have visited in Australia, why did we have to break down here?

Coober Pedy South Australia

On May the Fourth, we took the force into our own hands and decided to leave this dry desert fly-blown town. We went out to the busy yard where our caravan was slumped sideways alongside the wrecks of cars, taking some essential personal belongings before it was to be moved to a repairer at Port Augusta.

Caravan in need of repairs at Coober Pedy SA

It is five hundred and forty kilometres of empty desert between Coober Pedy and Port Augusta. As we drove south along the Stuart Highway and the next day east towards Victoria, there was a constant stream of caravans heading west and north, many brand-new caravans. I think it will be over-crowded for caravanners in Australia this year and they will find it hard to get a campsite in caravan parks and in free campsites. We were never planning to keep going. This was always going to be the last month for our big trip, but it felt awful leaving our caravan behind.

Heading south down the Stuart Highway in South Australia

Arriving at Port Augusta in the dark we drove straight into a lovely motel, The Standpipe, where the aromatic smells of Indian curry at the restaurant tempted us. We checked in, enjoyed an Indian banquet, then settled into crisp clean white sheets on a lovely comfortable bed; bliss after our week of stress.

The next day, Mick spoke with the repairers in Port Augusta where our caravan will be taken to, assessed, and fixed. It could be weeks before it will be ready to take home. Then we drove further south to Adelaide, then to Hahndorf for another overnight stay.

It was cold in Hahndorf and the Autumn leaves had turned to burgundy, orange, red, and yellow. At the pub we sat by the log fire and enjoyed big glasses of cold dark German beer that tasted to me of toffee. The stay at the Manna Haus Motel was luxurious with a king-sized bed and clean new amenities.

Autumn in Hahndorf SA

The caravans continued to arrive as we crossed back into our home state of Victoria. Back at the relative’s farm, we are relaxed, safe, and happy to be at the end of our travels. We move into our townhouse at the end of this month. Hopefully in June we will be able to drive back to Port Augusta to pick up the repaired caravan.

Heading home to Victoria

Back into South Australia

The branches of the shrubs shook. Growls and grunts disturbed the usually quiet Australian bush. Scuffling of feet on the rocky surface ran towards where we stood on the trail. More commotion. We did not know what it was. We guessed feral goats. Wild pigs? Koalas? Emu? Dingoes? Something more sinister? There are feral goats in the Ikara Flinders Ranges National Park, but this was no bleating. And although koalas can make very scary noises, I wasn’t sure if they inhabited this area. Emu make more of a drum sound. We didn’t stay around to see what wild animal appeared from the bushes.

Ikara – Flinders Ranges South Australia

Another day while we were descending from Mount Ohlssen – Bagge in the same National Park we were surprised by another totally different and unidentifiable sound. Mick thought it sounded like a door slamming, but up on the side of this mountain there were no buildings, structures, or roads. I thought perhaps goats jumping hard onto a rock or butting a tree with its horns. Maybe it was rocks falling or being thrown from above. It was the sound of a hard blow onto rocks one at a time and spaced with imperfect regularity. We paused on the trail. What was that strange out-of-place sound? We did not linger or go any closer to the sound to investigate.

Ikara Flinders Ranges South Australia

The Ikara Flinders Ranges National Park is in an ancient landscape and a geologist’s dream. Striped mountains reveal various rock formations and illustrate the story of how this land was formed. Atop one mountain ridge is a natural wall of rock battlements. Wilpena Pound is a great campground with walks and hikes of varying standards and challenge. The walk to the rim of the Wilpena Pound crater is a lovely stroll beside the dry creek-bed beneath the huge old white-trunked gums. At the rim is the old homestead where early settlers came and tried to farm sheep and wheat within the sheltered crater. Droughts drove them away eventually and the natural flora and fauna has recovered thankfully. The lookout shows the saw-tooth ridges of the crater walls and a lush valley.

Exploring South Australia

We drive further north to Blinmin where we have coffee and pies at the pub. We take a dirt side road to a dry gorge where the remains of dislodged trees are stacked high after recent heavy rains. Back at the camp it is busy due to ANZAC Day and a long weekend. People are up before sunrise to pay their respects to soldiers, one lone bugler hitting the notes perfectly.

South Australia has a lot to offer tourists, as there is so much variety. We drove across the border with rain falling steadily to the relief of the farmers and locals. We avoid driving to Adelaide and head north along the Murray River finding a free camp on the banks at Walker Flat. It’s cold but this does not dissuade the water skiers who are happy behind ski boats as the sun sets weaving around the houseboats that putter up and down the river.

Murray River at Walker Flat South Australia

Then inland further we head towards the winemaking region of the Clare Valley. The towns are small but delightful with stone houses and stone buildings in the main streets. It is very picturesque. We camp at the caravan park in Clare. It is still cold and raining. We taste some local wine at the Kilikanoon Winery.

Clare South Australia

We drive out to Martindale Hall at nearby Mintaro. It is an old stone mansion, a sheep station of yesteryear, now in the hands of the National Trust. It was used as one of the buildings for the film Picnic at Hanging Rock. Inside the opulence is on show with decorative touches on every surface. It welcomes visitors into a lovely internal space with a grand staircase. Each room is decorated with unique pieces on display. The smoking room has a unique and interesting collection of souvenirs from around the world. At the old pub in Mintaro we stop for a local wine under the verandah.

Martindale Hall Mintaro South Australia
Martindale Hall Mintaro South Australia
Martindale Hall Mintaro South Australia

To take care of some personal documentation we visit the local library in Clare where I can do printing and scanning. The staff are typically helpful as all library staff tend to be, and the library is tidy and well organised, a lovely local place located just behind the main street.

We drive further north towards the Flinders Ranges. This landscape is like something from Mars. We close a loop of our travels from the previous year when we scurried “home” for the first lockdown.

After enjoying the remoteness of the Flinders Ranges, we have to drive south back to Port Augusta before we go north once again towards Coober Pedy and the Northern Territory. This is the Australian Outback and there is nothing out here. Just flat plains, sparse mulga, red dirt, and blue sky forever. We see a couple of emus, lots of kangaroo roadkill, and huge eagles feasting on the fresh meat. We camp overnight at the Mulga Well Rest Area. There is no one else at this camp and it is a bit unnerving, but worth it for the colourful sunset and sunrise. During the night, a big bright moon lights the landscape, but we see no movement.

Outback South Australia

The next day we reach Coober Pedy. We have been here before about twenty-five years ago, and the town has grown. After a quick drive up and down the main street we decide to stay at the caravan park on the outskirts of town. It has an underground campground for those with tents and swags. We are above ground but under the shade of a garage.

Coober Pedy South Australia

We take the guided tour of the mine and the underground house at the caravan park. It is interesting to learn about opal-mining and the different techniques and costs involved. We drive out to the place outside the town perimeter where daily mining is underway, seeing the machinery and the piles of dirt extracted from underground. Then we watch an old timer cut and polish an opal while he describes what he is doing and what he is looking for. Then we try our luck noodling on the piles of stones placed there for the tourists. Mick goes back for a third try the next day.

South Australia

From here we will go north into the Northern Territory and out to Uluru and Kings Canyon.

Closing loops in South Australia

Central Victoria

The ducks quack happily and waddle around in troupes looking for people who will feed them. The town lake is beside the caravan park and is home to ducks, swans, and turtles. The lake level rose as the rain continued to fall. Fortunately, not as much as was currently falling in Queensland and New South Wales where flood emergencies forced people out of their houses.

Maryborough is a pretty town with beautiful heritage buildings and located in the Victorian Goldfield’s region. The railway station is a huge, beautiful heritage building with a daily train service operating. I have written about Maryborough before as we stayed here at the beginning of our travels in January 2020.

Central Victoria

Mick set off fossicking again taking his detector out into the state forest areas. While I stay in the caravan happy to be out of the rain. I read Possession by A.S. Byatt! I download the new Libby app then borrow emagazines on my iPad from the Melbourne Library Service. I listen to music on Spotify and the Rich Roll podcast on Apple Pods.

We are happy to watch some AFL football on TV as the 2021 season begins. We plan to be back on the Mornington Peninsula in time to watch our youngest son’s first game of the season.

It seems that all of the caravan parks in Victoria are full of Victorians at the moment, finally allowed to go travelling, but not wanting to go interstate just in case there is another lockdown. Big groups of noisy caravanners fill the parks. It is not pleasant after our year of free-spirited travel around Australia.

We leave planning to go to a free off-grid campsite somewhere and we find a lovely green grassy space at Glenpatrick just at the foothills of the Pyrenes Ranges. There are large firepits and firewood here, so this must be a popular place on weekends. There are no showers, TV, power, water, and the Internet is spasmodic. But it is quiet and we are the only campers here. We share the campground with a large mob of kangaroos. It is nice to enjoy a campfire under the stars and moon for a change. We haven’t had many fires on this trip. The local policeman visits and chats about how the nearby town of Elmhurst is dying.

Central Victoria

The next day we drive further west to St Arnaud. The little caravan park is full of a group of people from a caravan club, but we are lucky to get the last site. We walk around the town, discovering yet another dying regional town. It is sad to see. I think these towns were dying before the virus and now they are just about dead.

At Melville Caves we walk to the lookout and gaze out westwards towards the Grampians and the hills and plains. The caves are really just large boulders that are stacked to form some human-size gaps beneath. It is a nice place and there is a free camp on top of the hill that we take note of for another time.

The drive back to St Arnaud takes us through Tarnagulla. Our family spent one extremely hot Christmas Day in a shop here and so we have fond memories of this place. This town has been a ghost town for many years and the shops are either empty or used as residences. It is a pretty main street, and the shop buildings are quaint. Here too gold was the reason the town grew, and then died.

The main arterial roads in Victoria fan out from Melbourne, so when you travel across the state the roads are minor backroads. We drive from St Arnaud further westwards to Horsham, back to our relative’s farm. It is a year since we had to retreat to this place for the first lockdown., but we were here just eight weeks ago during the Christmas break. We will park our caravan and drive back ‘home’ for Easter.

Acheron VIC

This landscape heals my soul. The towering gums, bird calls, fast clear rivers, grazing cattle, ducks, blue mountains, and round yellow hills.

Acheron landscape VIC

The walk to Ned’s Peak takes about an hour but is steep. The view is worth it, the valleys stretching out below, rugged Cathedral Peak, with more dark ranges beyond. I see a lyrebird. Mick sees a Red- Breasted Finch of some variety. We hear Currawongs, Kookaburras, Lorikeets, and Cockatoos. The white trunks of river gums stand tall and healthy along the Acheron River.

Mick at Ned’s Peak Cathedral Ranges VIC

At Eildon Weir we drive across the wall, then stop to look down at both sides. While Mick scopes the pondage for fishing spots, I reminisce about my youth spent water-skiing on the flat green expanse of the weir. No luck with catching fish at the pondage or at various spots along the Goulburn River. Mick eventually catches a nice size Rainbow Trout. He sees two platypus swimming in the river, and we both see a large water rat swimming under the bridge. It is the same size as the brown ducks that it chases away.

Goulburn River Acheron VIC

It is Autumn so the days are sunny and warm and the nights are cold. We are snug in our caravan staying at the Breakaway Twin Rivers Caravan Park just metres from the clear and fast flowing Goulburn River. The brown ducks love it here. We walk to where the Goulburn River meets the Acheron River taking in the quiet and looking for platypus and fish.

We drive around the area visiting Alexandra, Thornton, Eildon, Rubicon, and Taggerty. We dream of owning a farm in this area.

Eildon Weir Pondage Eildon VIC

The weekend is busy at the caravan park with big groups of loud Melburnians crowding the space. Unfortunately, they stay an extra day despite it not being a public holiday; do children and teenagers ever go to school nowadays? Our last day is quiet with only six caravans left.

Goulburn River Acheron VIC

This is a beautifully situated caravan park, and very well managed, but the majority of the park is taken over with the ‘permanent’ and scrappy huts that seem to fill most of the caravan parks in Victoria. I realise the economics of the business, but caravanners are not being served adequately in my view. The permanents detract from the ambience and turn away other business. I have seen so many negative comments on Wikicamps about this. It is no wonder that caravanners are seeking the off-grid free camps as a better alternative.

Neighbouring permanent caravan/hut at Welshman’s Reef VIC

We drive the backroads west to Welshman’s Reef which is situated on the banks of the Cairn Curran Reservoir. This caravan park is in total contrast to Breakaway. It is dry. The water level is low and dead trees stand exposed in the lake. Water skiers come here regularly, and the caravan park is managed (very poorly) on a not-for-profit basis by a water-skiing organisation. Again, the permanent shacks fill the park. It is midweek and off-season, so no one is here except for two or three other caravanners. We prop in between two of the permanent shacks. Mick fishes but finds too many snags. Mobs of kangaroos sneak down to the water’s edge in the afternoons but are quick to bound away if they see a person.

Cairn Curran Reservoir Welshman’s Reef VIC

We drive around the region visiting Maldon, Castlemaine, Newstead, Sutton Grange, and Emu Creek. Lunch at Castlemaine is disappointing. The town feels dirty and in great need of cleaning and maintenance.

Shop in Maldon VIC

Our next stop is at Maryborough and we book a week. https://micksuesaussieadventure.home.blog/2020/01/18/the-golden-triangle/ This is one of the first towns of our big trip of Australia. We were here in January of 2020 before the virus invaded and made us change our route. It feels like a full circle heading back to this location in Victoria.

Trip route crisscrossing Victoria 2020 – 2021

Chiltern VIC

The cowboy comes charging out of the gate holding on to the unhappy bull, and my first sight of this sends my adrenalin pumping. What power and brute energy! The cowboys are worse off for this ride. They line up and try their luck to stay on, but no one scores a point at this event in Chiltern.

Cowboys riding bulls at Chiltern Rodeo VIC

Next the cowboys try to ride an untamed horse. They buck and jump, twisting this way and that, trying to shake off the cowboy. It’s no wonder a local medical clinic is one of the sponsors. Some are slow to stand up or they crawl out of the arena.

Cowboys riding horses at Chiltern Rodeo VIC

The women show off some very good skills on quarter horses, lassoing calves, and running a short obstacle course. They look awesome at speed, as their hats fly off.

Another cowboy bites the dust at Chiltern Rodeo VIC

I have never seen so many cowboy hats in one place at one time. This is a whole lifestyle that people choose to live every day. The rodeo event had been on the previous day in another town nearby. We’ve seen enough and leave early not wanting to get caught up in the crush of cars trying to leave the rough paddock at the racecourse.

Spectators at the Chiltern Rodeo VIC

Despite the fact that I went along to learn how to use my DSLR camera prior to taking this trip, I found that my skills and knowledge fall short when trying to capture great images at an event like this rodeo. Complicating factors are the fast action, heads and bodies of spectators getting in the way, the fading light at dusk, other obstacles such as large amplifier speaker boxes, and the necessary fence. My automatic focus kept catching the things closer than my subject. Everything happened so fast and I was just one of a few thousand spectators keen to see the action. My iPhone managed to capture a few good videos that I posted online. So, I was juggling cameras in search of that elusive shot, that I didn’t get this time.

Holding the gate at Chiltern Rodeo VIC

Back at the caravan park we are camped next to a lovely town lake where ducks live. It looks calm, but we can hear the constant drone of traffic from the Hume Freeway nearby, and the train line is in between and trains thunder past regularly. It is the long weekend, and we have an unpowered site as the caravan park is full. Many Melburnians are escaping the city after a year of lockdown.

Around the lake at Chiltern VIC

The Tuan Track is nearby and winds through the forest. This bushland is quite boring and dry. The walk is exercise for us and we enjoy the solitude. Like wobble-headed dashboard dogs we look up and down, watching for koalas in the trees and snakes on the ground, but see none of either.

Is this the last telephone box found in Chiltern VIC

Chiltern town is pretty with heritage buildings lining a quaint main street. We enjoy an excellent chicken parmigiana at the Telegraph Hotel. The local market is in the park on Sunday, but it is small and uninteresting.

Chiltern VIC

On Monday, the caravan park empties. We move on to our next spot the following day.

Snapshots of Victoria

Myrtleford and Surrounds VIC

Was it wishful thinking by William Baker when he named this area Eldorado back in 1840? Gold was found here ten or so years later. We visit the disappearing town that nestles nicely against a rough ridge line, seeing the mounds of discarded rocks where mining took place. There is nothing to keep us here, and the caravan park is closed indefinitely, so we drive across to Milawa to sample some wine at the Brown Brothers estate. We enjoy lunch and buy some liquid gold to take with us.

Myrtleford is a perfect central location for exploring this area and there is a lot to see and do. The pretty Ovens River flows through the town and valley, with plenty of fishing and picnic spots along the old rail trail, now a popular bike trail.

Mount Buffalo can be seen in the distance, grey rocks beckoning. We drive to Porepunkah, then another thirty kilometres winding up the mountain. It is a popular route for keen cyclists, and you need to be wary on every bend.

At the top we drive on to The Hump and The Cathedral. We have walked this trail in recent years. It is one kilometre up along a nice rocky path to the granite eyrie where you can prop to look at the 360-degree view, Mt Bogong in the alps nearby. The Cathedral is a solitary monolith that is popular with abseilers. Once on the top they stand unsupported with nothing to hold on to.

Mount Buffalo VIC

Mount Buffalo Chalet has passed its Hey Day, what was once a beautiful luxurious accommodation place, now houses ghosts. Peeking through the windows reveals beautiful original furnishings, as if you could just go on in and sign in to stay awhile. It is heritage listed and now a museum relic unfortunately.

Mount Buffalo Chalet

The carpark is full of daytrippers, teens learning how to abseil, lots of leather-clad motorcyclists, a few lycra-clad cyclists, and emergency service crews practicing rescue drills off the edge of a cliff.

At Bright we stop for coffee. It is a popular and busy place at the base of the ski mountains. Autumn is its busiest season as the leaves on the trees turn to red and yellow and people flock from Melbourne to see this. We drive over the mountain to Mt Beauty and walk out to the Gorge. It is an easy and pretty walk with a clear stream running over rocks that are easy to traverse. At the gorge there is a swimming hole, and someone has cleverly stacked river stones into a tower.

Mount Beauty Gorge

Mount Beauty is a sleepy town that snuggles at the feet of the alps, but unlike Bright it was not busy or bustling with tourists. We try to have a counter lunch at a pub, but the pub isn’t serving meals. This region has too many European Wasps and an infestation of blackberry bushes. Where are the environmentalists?

Yackandandah VIC

We drive back via Yackandandah. There is family history for Mick here too but we are tired of the fruitless search, and instead enjoy afternoon tea in a charming shop full of olde worlde charm.

Samplings the beverages of the region

Back in Myrtleford we walk around the town. The Big Tree was a very big tree once. We walk along the trails of Reform Hill where gold mining ran its course back in the 1850’s. Mick tries his luck fishing in the Ovens River, seeing some big fish but not catching any.

Myrtleford and surrounds VIC

Further Along the Murray River VIC

Follow the water! What is it about humans that we are always attracted to water?

The Murray River is not that attractive really, just brown water with stranded dead trees and muddy banks. We continue our journey following the Murray River Highway that runs in a parallel fashion along the route as the river worms along the border.

Lake King Rutherglen VIC

At Lake Moodemere Estate Winery the unique Murray River water essence we tasted in the wine and the perfectly cooked Murray Cod. The cod was bathed in a butter sauce with capers and macadamia nut slivers. The Riesling was crisp, the Rosé paired nicely with the Gnoochi and chestnuts, and Mick enjoyed the bold Shiraz with the Wagyu steak. We sat in the shade of a tall conifer on the high banks beside the lake near the old homestead. When in Rutherglen a winery visit is a must.

Lunch at Lake Moodemere Estate Rutherglen VIC

Being released from lockdown we head East and stay at Cobram. The caravan park on the highway was small, busy, and noisy. It was full of tourists and the trucks decelerate as they reach the town limits. The small pool enough for a dip on the hot days. We explore the quaint town and Thompson’s Beach near the bridge. This must be a popular place on hot evenings for locals as there is a café / wine bar with lots of shade and grass with a large sandy beach providing easy access into the river.

Thompson’s Beach Murray River Cobram VIC

Our next stop is at Rutherglen and we stay at the caravan park beside the small lake which teems with birdlife and turtles. A family of four Tawny Frogmouth live in the tree beside our caravan. The heritage public swimming pool is next door, and we enjoy a lovely swim there. It reminds me so much of the old Belgrave Pool where I spent my youth. There is a diving board and “diving is permitted”, so I dive in joyously, reliving days gone by. Mick plays golf at the local course which is a bit rough and not ideal for putting. Rutherglen town is beautiful with old heritage buildings showcasing the early settlement years.

Tawny Frogmouth birds Rutherglen VIC

We drive through Wodonga not wanting to negotiate the larger towns while towing a caravan. We find Ludlow’s Reserve on the banks of Lake Hume (Hume Wier). It is a free off-grid RV park with lots of space to camp near the boat ramps. The spot we claim has thick green grass and nice shade with a panoramic view of the lake and the hills beyond. Mick fishes and catches nothing but sees more small turtles.

Ludlow’s Reserve Lake Hume VIC

I take more photos at sunsets and sunrises enchanted with the changing colours of the sky reflected in the waters.

Ludlow’s Reserve Lake Hume VIC

Next stop is Tallangatta.

Travelling around Victoria

Murray River VIC

“How’s the serenity?”

It is quiet; too quiet! At night you can hear your heart beating. During the daylight, the birds talk all day. Meanwhile the brown water sweeps silently westward.

The Murray River is Australia’s longest river at 2,520 kilometres, and the third longest navigable river in the world, after the Amazon and the Nile. It is unique in that there are no major cities situated along the route. Although Albury Wodonga is a growing city.

We wake at midnight startled, sitting straining to hear anything unusual; like cats with fur standing on end, our senses are heightened. Nothing, but we are spooked. There is no one else about and it’s too quiet. Eventually we settle back to sleep until daylight.

We are camped alone at Masters Landing on the Murray River. It looks well used and has fire pits, some firewood, and drop toilets. There is a rope tied to a high branch so people must swing out from the high banks into the river. Water skiers must love this spot on the weekends and during the summer holidays.

Mick fishes and catches an 80 centimetre Murray Cod. He calls to me from the bank so that I can take a photo, but I don’t hear him. The cod does a lazy flip, shakes the hook free, and swims away casually. Mick intended to release the fish anyway, but we have no photo proof of the catch. At least he knows. I go for a swim, reliving days of my youth when I swam in the river at Tocumwal. Once I squelch through the thick mud I glide out into the strong current, not game to venture out too far from the edge. As a teenager I would have swam across and back without thinking twice.

There is an old hut here. It is leaning sideways but remarkably intact considering it was built in 1860 by Frederick Masters using red gum and grey box eucalypts. He married Emma Taylor and they had thirteen children. Frederick worked as a deckhand on the paddle steamers, as well as selling fish he caught. It must have been a hard life here back then. Three of the children died, Charlotte drowned in the river when she was just two. Walking through the hut is creepy as old furniture remains. Apparently, descendants of the family lived here until 2010. It really needs to be cleaned up (inside at least) by Parks Victoria.

Masters Hut Murrary River VIC

We have camped at three places along this stretch of the Murray. First at Pental Island caravan park which is tucked away on a private cattle station. The grass is a thick green carpet and luxurious to walk barefoot. The bend in the river is a perfect spot for fishing and we walk under the river gums during the hot days. There are a few other campers here but not many and birdsong fills the air.

Pental Island Murray River VIC

The next stop is near Koondrook beside the Gunbower Creek. We camp off-grid alone right next to the full creek, although we can see other caravans nearby. Mick fishes from dawn to dusk. He catches shrimp and yabbies for bait. He catches and dispatches more carp. They are an introduced species and a pest in this environment. We see a turtle. The wind is strong, and we decide that we won’t light a campfire even though there are no fire restrictions at this time.

Gunbower Creek VIC

Our next stop is at the country town of Cohuna and we stay at the free off-grid 72-hour RV park in the town. There are about four other campers here. We go for a swim at the local pool. There is a caravan park nearby beside the lake, but the reviews on Wikicamps are enough to keep us away. We head off the next day.

Murrary River VIC

Driving through the Gunbower State Forest with our caravan is a bit of a mistake. In search of the perfect riverside spot, we negotiate dirt roads with long deep ruts. In wet weather this would be a bog. We get our first pinstripes on the caravan trying not to get wedged between scraggly trees. Eventually we find Masters Landing near a boat-ramp not far from the small town of Gunbower. After our spooky night we head into town and book into the Gunbower Caravan Park. Here we wash the beige dust from the caravan and car. There is a nice swimming pool, relief for the hot days.

Murray River VIC

But then Victoria goes into a snap lockdown for the third time due to an outbreak of the virus at Melbourne Airport. The caravan park will close. We discuss our options: stay put; return to the farm at Horsham; or cross the border into New South Wales. After discussions with the caravan park owners, they allow us to stay because we are self-contained. Next Wednesday we will reassess the situation, hoping to move on.

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