caravanning – Page 2 – Mick & Sue's Aussie Adventure

March 4, 2021June 8, 2021

Old Stories at Tallangatta VIC

Do we ever know the real story? Our story, history, current stories in the news, are always subject to interpretation.

While we try to find answers to the mysteries of our own family history in Tallangatta, in the news the Australian Attorney General is accused of a story of rape from 33 years ago, when he was just 17. The girl/woman now deceased. What hope do we have to know the truth?

While the Crepe Myrtles distract us with their gaudy magenta blossoms in new Tallangatta, we discover that in Old Tallangatta the secrets washed away with the manmade Hume Weir during the 1950’s.

There is history here, but who knows what lies beneath? The foundations of Old Tallangatta lie exposed with only 55% capacity of the lake, while in the new town, the caravan park perches beside the new lake, with old lean-to “permanent” huts destroying what ambience might exist otherwise.

I am uneasy here despite the calm lake, quiet surrounds, active birdlife, and pretty town. I wanted answers but find nothing.

Pearl Matilda (nee Newman) Bentley told us when she was alive of her childhood years in Tallangatta helping out in a large family. Did I remember that right? We only knew her as the blue-haired, much-loved, truth-speaking, Grandmother who could cook to satisfy many children and grandchildren. The story has gaps in it. Born in 1910 she would have been a girl in Old Tallangatta. But where?

Many years ago, I found online a family history titled “From Cornwall to Eldorado” written in 2010 by Peter Prevos and Sue Brewer-Prevos. In chapter 6 they mention in passing only, Lilian Christina Higgins who married William Joseph Bentley. William is Mick’s paternal Great Grandfather. Lilian was born in Tallangatta in 1887. But these are not Pearl’s family. Pearl married William’s son Edward Laurence Bentley. How did they meet? Where? Edward was born in nearby Stanley in 1909.

Lilian Christina (nee Higgins) Bentley, William Joseph Bentley (to her left), and Edward Laurence Bentley (at far right).

Many were in search of gold back then. What did they find? How did they live? We can’t hope to overlay the 21^st century living conditions onto these early settlers. Beside each old timber shack there is a newly constructed dwelling.

We traipse around the cemetery at Tallangatta but don’t see any names from the family tree.

A lady in a store tells us of a walk in the state forest nearby and we drive into the untouched Aussie forest, walking uphill along a leaf-laden trail, to Conic Rocks. These granite monoliths form a convenient veranda where we eat our lunch and gaze out across the panorama towards Lake Hume and the mountains beyond. Mick startles a family of three lyrebirds in the bush. They cry out with a strange sound then fly up onto low branches before scurrying off into the scrub. The old trestle bridge near the highway once carried trains. At Koetong Pub we quench our thirst with a beer while sitting alone under the leafy trees.

We drive around the lake to Bethang and Bellbridge, inadvertently crossing into New South Wales. Here the weir was formed with a large wall that channeled the flow into a turbine to generate electricity before belching it out to flow as the Murray River once again.

The next morning, I wake to the cry of a Black Cockatoo as it flies out across the lake in the morning light. I get up to see the moon set in a sky striped with blue and pink. It feels good to finally leave the Murray River behind, but I feel disappointed that I didn’t find whatever it is that I was looking for here.

Moonset at sunrise over Lake Hume Tallangatta VIC

Our next stop is Myrtleford and we will visit nearby Eldorado.

February 27, 2021February 27, 2021

Further Along the Murray River VIC

Follow the water! What is it about humans that we are always attracted to water?

The Murray River is not that attractive really, just brown water with stranded dead trees and muddy banks. We continue our journey following the Murray River Highway that runs in a parallel fashion along the route as the river worms along the border.

At Lake Moodemere Estate Winery the unique Murray River water essence we tasted in the wine and the perfectly cooked Murray Cod. The cod was bathed in a butter sauce with capers and macadamia nut slivers. The Riesling was crisp, the Rosé paired nicely with the Gnoochi and chestnuts, and Mick enjoyed the bold Shiraz with the Wagyu steak. We sat in the shade of a tall conifer on the high banks beside the lake near the old homestead. When in Rutherglen a winery visit is a must.

Lunch at Lake Moodemere Estate Rutherglen VIC

Being released from lockdown we head East and stay at Cobram. The caravan park on the highway was small, busy, and noisy. It was full of tourists and the trucks decelerate as they reach the town limits. The small pool enough for a dip on the hot days. We explore the quaint town and Thompson’s Beach near the bridge. This must be a popular place on hot evenings for locals as there is a café / wine bar with lots of shade and grass with a large sandy beach providing easy access into the river.

Thompson’s Beach Murray River Cobram VIC

Our next stop is at Rutherglen and we stay at the caravan park beside the small lake which teems with birdlife and turtles. A family of four Tawny Frogmouth live in the tree beside our caravan. The heritage public swimming pool is next door, and we enjoy a lovely swim there. It reminds me so much of the old Belgrave Pool where I spent my youth. There is a diving board and “diving is permitted”, so I dive in joyously, reliving days gone by. Mick plays golf at the local course which is a bit rough and not ideal for putting. Rutherglen town is beautiful with old heritage buildings showcasing the early settlement years.

We drive through Wodonga not wanting to negotiate the larger towns while towing a caravan. We find Ludlow’s Reserve on the banks of Lake Hume (Hume Wier). It is a free off-grid RV park with lots of space to camp near the boat ramps. The spot we claim has thick green grass and nice shade with a panoramic view of the lake and the hills beyond. Mick fishes and catches nothing but sees more small turtles.

I take more photos at sunsets and sunrises enchanted with the changing colours of the sky reflected in the waters.

Next stop is Tallangatta.

February 14, 2021February 14, 2021

Murray River VIC

“How’s the serenity?”

It is quiet; too quiet! At night you can hear your heart beating. During the daylight, the birds talk all day. Meanwhile the brown water sweeps silently westward.

The Murray River is Australia’s longest river at 2,520 kilometres, and the third longest navigable river in the world, after the Amazon and the Nile. It is unique in that there are no major cities situated along the route. Although Albury Wodonga is a growing city.

We wake at midnight startled, sitting straining to hear anything unusual; like cats with fur standing on end, our senses are heightened. Nothing, but we are spooked. There is no one else about and it’s too quiet. Eventually we settle back to sleep until daylight.

We are camped alone at Masters Landing on the Murray River. It looks well used and has fire pits, some firewood, and drop toilets. There is a rope tied to a high branch so people must swing out from the high banks into the river. Water skiers must love this spot on the weekends and during the summer holidays.

Mick fishes and catches an 80 centimetre Murray Cod. He calls to me from the bank so that I can take a photo, but I don’t hear him. The cod does a lazy flip, shakes the hook free, and swims away casually. Mick intended to release the fish anyway, but we have no photo proof of the catch. At least he knows. I go for a swim, reliving days of my youth when I swam in the river at Tocumwal. Once I squelch through the thick mud I glide out into the strong current, not game to venture out too far from the edge. As a teenager I would have swam across and back without thinking twice.

There is an old hut here. It is leaning sideways but remarkably intact considering it was built in 1860 by Frederick Masters using red gum and grey box eucalypts. He married Emma Taylor and they had thirteen children. Frederick worked as a deckhand on the paddle steamers, as well as selling fish he caught. It must have been a hard life here back then. Three of the children died, Charlotte drowned in the river when she was just two. Walking through the hut is creepy as old furniture remains. Apparently, descendants of the family lived here until 2010. It really needs to be cleaned up (inside at least) by Parks Victoria.

We have camped at three places along this stretch of the Murray. First at Pental Island caravan park which is tucked away on a private cattle station. The grass is a thick green carpet and luxurious to walk barefoot. The bend in the river is a perfect spot for fishing and we walk under the river gums during the hot days. There are a few other campers here but not many and birdsong fills the air.

The next stop is near Koondrook beside the Gunbower Creek. We camp off-grid alone right next to the full creek, although we can see other caravans nearby. Mick fishes from dawn to dusk. He catches shrimp and yabbies for bait. He catches and dispatches more carp. They are an introduced species and a pest in this environment. We see a turtle. The wind is strong, and we decide that we won’t light a campfire even though there are no fire restrictions at this time.

Our next stop is at the country town of Cohuna and we stay at the free off-grid 72-hour RV park in the town. There are about four other campers here. We go for a swim at the local pool. There is a caravan park nearby beside the lake, but the reviews on Wikicamps are enough to keep us away. We head off the next day.

Driving through the Gunbower State Forest with our caravan is a bit of a mistake. In search of the perfect riverside spot, we negotiate dirt roads with long deep ruts. In wet weather this would be a bog. We get our first pinstripes on the caravan trying not to get wedged between scraggly trees. Eventually we find Masters Landing near a boat-ramp not far from the small town of Gunbower. After our spooky night we head into town and book into the Gunbower Caravan Park. Here we wash the beige dust from the caravan and car. There is a nice swimming pool, relief for the hot days.

But then Victoria goes into a snap lockdown for the third time due to an outbreak of the virus at Melbourne Airport. The caravan park will close. We discuss our options: stay put; return to the farm at Horsham; or cross the border into New South Wales. After discussions with the caravan park owners, they allow us to stay because we are self-contained. Next Wednesday we will reassess the situation, hoping to move on.

February 5, 2021February 5, 2021

The Wimmera VIC

Clouds skid across the sky in a kaleidoscope of colours: apricot, raspberry, smoke, and slate; white powder puffs disappear into blue. The sky is big out here above the dry flat brown ground of the Wimmera. At night, the stars and planets are easy to identify using the SkyView app.

We are glad to be back in our caravan, cosy in our small home on wheels once again, lucky to be camped amongst trees on private land with access to the swimming pool for those 40C degree days.

The animals remember and greet us: Sunny and Star the crazy Aplacas, Lily, Ebony and Jack, the black cats, Raj the peacock, and the two fluffy chooks Lady Gaga and Madonna. Jet, the 17-year-old black dog did not see the daylight of 2021. The pretty chooks were laying small nutritious eggs. The peacock was shedding tail feathers. The Alpacas roam and shake their ears. The cats laze in the house during the day then try to escape at night, Ebony, the master escapist succeeding regularly.

Mick helps with the painting again and runs along the rural roads. I read the popular novel Where the Crawdads Sing by Delia Owens and a clever science fiction Aurora by Kim Stanley Robinson.

I complete a six-week course on Genealogy online through Future Learn and the University of Strathclyde in Glasgow. It is interesting, informative, and current. It taught me how to properly document, validate, track, and reference my research. The information about DNA testing for genealogy was exactly what I want to know and has inspired me to get a test done in the near future. I feel confident I can continue my own family history research when I get home to my records.

Mick played golf a few times with his brother and another couple of blokes, while I scour the op shops of Horsham with three other gals. The Saturday market at the tiny town of Jung was fun and I bought homemade tomato relish, apple scrolls, and coffees.

We plan to continue our Aussie Adventure this year staying in our home state of Victoria. We briefly discussed travelling back to Western Australia as they finally opened the border after almost twelve months, only to slam it shut again after a scare of a case of the virus in Perth. Melbourne too is currently tracing an outbreak from quarantine of the highly contagious UK strain. It is a worry.

January 31, 2021January 31, 2021

Mornington Peninsula VIC

Cars with trailers lined up along the main road causing traffic problems as their friends sat on jet-skis beached beside the small sandy boat ramp. We sat with friends beside a boat shed nearby, enjoying John’s homemade Asian prawn salad, as the sun set across Port Phillip Bay. The queue at the boat ramp was still as long when we returned home some hours later.

The Mornington Peninsula is a popular tourist destination in summer and the people of Greater Melbourne flock there. It is our home. The boat launching facilities are shameful, insufficient, poor quality, and cannot meet the demand. Mick no longer owns a boat and has not fished in the bay for over a decade.

We left the caravan parked at Horsham planning to spend the Christmas and New Year break with family on the Mornington Peninsula. Still “homeless”, we stayed with our son, daughter-in-law, and our two granddaughters. We helped them move into their new house, built by our builder son. We gave them some respite after the long period of restrictions and lockdown due to the virus, minding the girls, allowing them to spend some time to themselves.

Fun with family Mornington Peninsula VIC

It was great catching up with family and friends: a surprise 60^th birthday party, Christmas lunch, a funeral, meals and coffees with friends, fine dining at Stillwater Winery, Italian food at Donna Maria in Flinders, a visit to the Rye Carnival, walks to the beach, and Mick played golf while I played with the little girls. It was festive and fun. Also, exhausting, and difficult negotiating the summer crowds and traffic.

Mick looked at real estate, shocked at the skyrocketing prices, everything far too overpriced. The few open houses we went to were like a feeding frenzy where #FOMO choked the air.

I wrote a formal six-page letter to the MPS Council describing how bad and expensive the caravan and camping facilities are there on the Peninsula foreshore in comparison to everywhere else in Australia! Of course, I have not received a reply and it has been about six weeks since I sent it to them. Not that I expect a reply. I hope they take my complaints seriously and actually do some work to improve the Rosebud Foreshore in particular. It needs a lot of work to accommodate all of the needs of residents, campers, day-trippers, and businesses.

We were relieved to leave the crazy Mornington Peninsula and return to our caravan in Horsham. In the next few days, we will resume our travel adventures.

December 24, 2020December 25, 2020

Caravanning In Real Life #IRL

The realities of life on the road with a caravan can be ignored in Social Media (SM). What appears idyllic and glamourous has its difficult side that does not get promoted. In the interest of being authentic this list has some of the things not seen and must be faced:

– Free camps are few and far between and usually crammed full of RVs of every shape and size. The camera shots for SM carefully aim for their exclusion. What might look like a gorgeous spot in the middle of nowhere, may have fifty other RVs behind the photographer.

That perfect vivid photo you see on Instagram has had a filter or two applied. Colours #IRL are usually not as “insane”. Even without the filters it can be hard to modify to a gorgeous clear still aqua sea from the ubiquitous brown dirty choppy waves.

Roads are bumpy – sealed and unsealed.

There can be hours and kilometres of boring scenery between the ‘good’ spots. In Australia this is absolutely true, and you often think to yourself that it might be a better option to fly there rather than drive.

Smells and sounds not seen in a beautiful picture can ruin the experience for those there #IRL. At 1770 the reek of dead fish sent us on our way not waiting to take those iconic sunset pics. Some locations smell bad.

Beware of the ‘waterfront’ site; when the storm hits waves might come crashing over your caravan.

Waterfront sites Lang Lang Victoria 2020

A beautiful native bird can startle you awake in the middle of the night with its blood-curdling cry. The Australian Bush Stone-Curlew is common in northern Australia.

You might need to elbow your way through a crowd to get that closeup of a kangaroo, turtle, or crocodile in the wild. Often the numbers of people in the crowd outnumber the wildlife unfortunately.

Looking at crocs at Cahill’s Crossing East Alligator River Kakadu Northern Territory 2020

You will always need to find a public toilet, and a dump point for emptying the portaloo. These are usually listed on Wikicamps.

Not all towns cater for cars towing caravans. You might drive in and drive out without finding anywhere to stop. Thank goodness for the ‘RV Friendly’ towns.

Some places are too windy, too hot, too cold, or too dry.

Some places are inauthentic and trying hard to be something it is NOT. Wave Rock in WA costs $15 just to stop, and above the rock, out of sight, is an ugly manmade concrete dam wall.

Swimming in Australia can be problematic due to sharks, crocodiles, currents, underwater rock formations, and jellyfish. Obey the signs for your own safety. Again, SM photos are deceptive.

Internet and TV connection is spasmodic. Do not rely on either. Carry some cash.

Radio connection in your car is sparse and random.

Country music is everywhere.

Water pressure, toilet facilities, and showers, in caravan parks vary considerably. You need to drop your standards.

You still need to do the chores. Food shopping, buying fuel and gas, finding a doctor or dentist or skin specialist, and laundry. It might be a holiday, but …

The car and caravan will need maintenance: tyres, service, new windscreens, fixtures refitted, wheel bearings, and regular cleaning.

Bare feet might look carefree, but you will need various footwear to protect your feet for different reasons: boots, sandals, thongs, runners, closed-toe shoes, etc.

Caravan parks are often full, crowded, cramped, and expensive. Some are difficult to drive in to and get out of.

You will hear and see your neighbours: talk, shout, sing, swear, cry (babies), fart (old men), cough, snore (old women), and give unwanted advice and opinions.

Fares, fees, and tickets can be expensive. Many of these are not optional. The Jardine River Crossing return for a car with caravan was $130 in 2020 to cross about 100 metres of shallow, pristine, crocodile-infested salt waters.

School holidays are a difficult time to be on the road as all of the campsites are full. Book ahead for these times or plan to stay put for the duration.

Travellers vary and have different expectations and lifestyle habits: grey nomads, backpackers, families trying hard to be full-time ‘social influencers’, not-quite-retired couples, pets, homeless people, Europeans, permanent residents of caravan parks, drifters, motor-homers, expert and longtime caravanners, surfers, the regulars who come to the same spot every year, and many others.

Travelling in the Year of the Virus 2020 has had some advantages and disadvantages: restricted travel, less people travelling, closed attractions, less people at famous spots, safety measures such as distancing and hand sanitising, closed borders.

Sometimes you will become friends (and then SM friends) with your neighbours and at other locations you might not even speak with those camped next door.

Free off-grid RV park somewhere in Australia 2020

Missing family and friends. You will observe locals enjoying picnics with family and feel invisible and homesick.

Flies and mosquitoes.

Dust.

You will still need to lodge your tax return.

Trust your instincts, go with the flow, enjoy every moment, and be kind and friendly to everyone you meet.

Who knows what 2021 will bring? More travels? More restrictions? The vaccine rolled out?

December 15, 2020December 17, 2020

Statistics from One Year of Caravanning in 2020

Looking at the metrics is always interesting and revealing.

We started our planned lap of Australia on the 1^st December 2019.

We visited every state except for Tasmania and the Australian Capital Territory.

The Wikicamps app proved to be a great way to plan ahead and log where we had been.

The Fuel Map app showed us how efficiently the rig was travelling.

We travelled 41,175 kilometres in total over 373 days.

– $166 per day

– $1,162 per week

– $0.20 per kilometre in fuel

– $190 per week for campsites

– Total spending of $1.50 per kilometre (this is everything including new tyres for the car and caravan, new windscreen, trips, and fees into places of interest, fuel, campsites, food, and all of the usual day to day expenses.)

– We stayed at 80 campsites, 75% were paid caravan parks, 25% were free off-grid campgrounds.

Trip route for Mick & Sue’s Aussie Adventure 2020

Our original planned route was changed dramatically due to the pandemic. We had to back-track from Western Australia due to state borders closing. We spent three months in the initial lockdown period in our caravan on a relative’s farm at Horsham Victoria. Once we were allowed to move, we headed north. We obeyed all of the rules, stayed safe, kept our receipts, filled in the applications for border passes, and had no problem crossing into other states when we could. We kept away from populated areas and the major cities, except for Darwin. We were in Perth before the first lockdown.

December 9, 2020December 9, 2020

Gippsland VIC

The vessel rocks. I hear the soft lapping of the waves and I look up from my writing to see blue water to the horizon. Seagulls and pelicans carouse in the gusty wind. I am not on a boat but sitting inside our caravan that is parked near the water’s edge at Port Albert in South Gippsland of Victoria.

The apocalyptic bushfires of last year tore through large forests and small towns of the Gippsland region and one year on the new growth appears bright green against the blackened trunks. Our first stop is at Mallacoota, which became famous last year as the place where people were rescued from the beach and taken to safety in navy ships, while the sky glowed dark and as red as hell. Fortunately, the town of Mallacoota was not damaged and is thriving now with the second virus lockdown over.

We camped beachside looking out across the blue inlet where a flotilla of pelicans perched and drifted. Mick fished but had no luck. We enjoyed dinner at the pub with a couple we had met at Eden. All of us confused about the mask-wearing protocol, but we did our best. A koala strolled across the campground then up a tree; the first we have seen on this trip around Australia.

It is cold and windy and so we now wear long-sleeved tops and have the extra blanket on the bed.

Further south we stay at Lake Tyers Beach so that Mick can catch up with a golfing buddy who has moved here recently. The beach nearby is the northern tip of the 90 Mile Beach with beautiful sand stretching on forever and clear cold turquoise waters crashing onto the beach. I see a large echidna snuffling around in the beach scrub.

Mick caught a big flathead at Lake Tyers VIC

We visit Lakes Entrance and walk along the bushy spit to the entrance where fast-flowing waters assist the fishing fleet. I am not a fan of Lakes Entrance and never have been. Something about it disturbs me and makes me anxious. But many other people love it, live here, or come regularly for holidays. We have lunch in a café at nearby Metung, looking out to the lake. Back at Lake Tyers Beach Mick goes fishing and catches a one metre long flathead, and after taking a photo, releases it back into the water. He has a game of golf with his friend and we all have a nice meal at the tavern looking out to the blue Lake Tyers and the beach and sea beyond.

I am happy to move on and we drive further south to Port Albert where we stay at a free RV friendly park next to the water. It is still windy and cold at just 20⁰C in the sunshine. A walk about the town reveals that there is not much here; a general store, a fish and chips shop, a closed and empty pub, and lots of holiday accommodation. The boat ramp and piers are excellent. This little harbour is sheltered by offshore islands from the wild seas of the Tasman Sea and Bass Straits beyond.

The next day we wind our way through beautiful South Gippsland towards a caravan park we have heard of at Lang Lang foreshore. The weather is bleak and cold typical of this region. We park on a waterfront site between some permanent shacks. The afternoon is calm and still with the low tide revealing mud flats. French Island is beyond sitting in the middle of Western Port Bay.

The forecast storm hits like a freight train in the evening. Our caravan is unprotected and rocks and creaks in the gale force winds. At daybreak, the wind has not abated, and now with the high tide, waves are crashing over our caravan! The sea is as high as the rock wall and water gushes across the ground into the main caravan park. The high tide level is beyond the front wheels of our car that is still hitched to the caravan. Waves drench us as we leave the inside of the caravan and get ready to leave. It is ridiculous and something we have not experienced in this trip. What a way to spend the last night.

We drive in windy conditions towards Melbourne heading for Horsham. The motorways have light traffic, and we make it across the Westgate Bridge and through Melbourne in good time.

November 26, 2020December 17, 2020

Sapphire Coast NSW

The Sapphire Coast of New South Wales is well named as the seas sparkle dark blue across the bays and out to the Tasman Sea. With so many rivers, lakes, bays, and inlets, this is a fisherman’s paradise.

So, Mick finally gets a tiny bit serious about his fishing forays and tries his luck, taking note of the local tricks. He is happy to catch a lovely plate-sized pair of black flatheads in the Moruya River. At Tathra he has no luck at the Bega River inlet, or from the famous Wharf. He catches a Southern Green Moray Eel from the rocky headland and returns that to the water lifeless after struggling to release his hook. He watches at the wharf as another fisherman fights to land a 1.2 metre Kingfish. At Eden he fishes from the banks of the shallow saltwater lake and then later from the beach. He was elated to catch a good size Australian Salmon. He sees a two-metre-long Mako Shark come into the shallows chasing the salmon. Later we hear that this bay is a nursery for Mako Sharks. The fresh fish van visits the caravan park ringing the bell, so we buy and enjoy fresh oysters and fresh flathead.

Mick is happy with his catches Sapphire Coast NSW

We swim in the cold seas. Kianinny Bay is a beautiful little cove with clear green waters. We see a large black stingray drifting for scraps near the boat ramp. With snorkels and fins adjusted we edge in. It is freezing!! I glide off across the pool, but Mick is out already, stunned by the cold water. Later we swim in the rolling surf at Tathra across the road from the caravan park. It is refreshing in the white frothing surf. We get out and only then notice many blue-bottle jellyfish stranded above the tideline. We need to be on the lookout as we don’t want to get tangled up with those poisonous tendrils. The pool at the caravan park is warmed with a solar system; this will do nicely. At Eden the clear green waves beckon enticingly, masking their underwater power.

At Moruya I become familiar with the gentle flap sound high above as skydivers unfurl their chutes. Blue, crimson, orange, green, yellow; colourful pops that appear suddenly, then the skydivers steer through the air back to the yellow flags on the runway nearby. A couple of tandem rides land on the soft sand at the beach. It is an awesome sight however I am not tempted to do it myself.

The campground at Moruya North Head is awful, only surpassed by the dreadful camps of the Rosebud Foreshore. The amenities here are to be avoided. “Permanents” hide in tent hovels, obviously homeless. Despite the campground, there is a lot to do here and explore. So, people are out making their own fun: fishing, surfing, boating, kayaking, skydiving, cycling, walking, swimming, building huts on the beaches using the driftwood from the nearby Moruya River.

Tathra is busy on the weekend with lots of families enjoying some much-needed travel in this year of restrictions due to the virus. There are lots of mountain bike trails nearby and it is obviously the thing to do because everyone has their bike and they set off along the paths. It is noisy with people having fun, laughing, and talking. The small town of Tathra struggles to cope with visitors. I wonder how things go in the busy summer holiday periods. We have a nice lunch at the iconic Tathra Hotel. We walk a lot up and down the paths looking out across the beautiful views beside the ocean. Bushfires went through this town about three years ago and you can see where the damage was done. It appears to be recovering well. The lush green fields of the Bega Valley still feed contented cows. It is an idyllic landscape.

Trip routes in New South Wales – avoiding virus hotspots

Further south at Eden we camp at a lovely park-like caravan park situated between the sea and the lake; green grass, tall shady trees, lots of birds, and you can hear the waves breaking on the sand from our caravan. We walk to town several times. We climb the rocks near the ocean pool, too cold for swimming. We take a dip in the sea. We explore some local towns; Boydtown and Wonboyn. The forests are black from last year’s catastrophic bushfires, but once again the forest is regenerating with new green growth up the trunks and new green undergrowth. The cicadas must love these environmental conditions because they call out loudly from the charred wood. We see a large goanna scurry up a tree.

Finally, with 24 days free of COVID-19 cases in Victoria, New South Wales opens the border on Monday 23 November just after midnight. Eden is the first major town along the Princes Highway into New South Wales, and we see an influx of Victorian vehicles with caravans and camper vans. It is easy to tell the difference between the new travellers and others. The Victorians still wear their long pants and long-sleeved tops, and a stunned look on their faces. Others like us still wear shorts and t-shirts and have brown skin and relaxed smiles. I think some kindness, care, and good listening is in order. Lots of people have had it hard this year.

We get new tyres for the caravan at Eden, have them balanced and checked. While we wait, we visit the Killer Whale Museum where we learn about the infamous whale Old Tom who behaved like a cattle dog, befriending the fisherman and rounding up the larger whales and herding them into the bays for slaughter.

Skeleton of Old Tom and life size model of a Mako Shark at Eden Killer Whale Museum NSW

Finally, we head south into Victoria. It has been over five months since we left our home state. There are still some restrictions in place, and we will need to get used to wearing face masks at certain times.

November 15, 2020November 24, 2020

Mudgee NSW

The wine jolts our tastebuds awake, then conjures images of vanilla, musk, honey, eucalyptus, blackberries, cashews, and fermented grapes. Lulled into bliss we sit on the deck gazing out across the vineyards to the town and hills beyond. White fluffy clouds hang suspended in the blue sky while warm sunshine makes us retreat into the shade of the veranda.

Moothi Estate has a lovely position on the hillside with views across the valley. We order the Ploughman’s Lunch and taste their Chardonnay, Sparkling Rose, Merlot, and sweet thick fortified Shiraz. We favour the Chardonnay to accompany the delicious local grazing plate. While Noosa might be paradise, this is heaven.

The caravan parks were all full when we arrive in Mudgee, so we find a spot at the Showgrounds. It is a lovely spot with thick green grass, tall shady trees, roses in bloom, lots of birds, and the pretty hills as a backdrop. There had been a horse show on the previous weekend, so despite everything cleaned up, there remained a pervading smell of horse shit and this kept the hopeful flies about. A new amenities block with hot showers are the cleanest we have come across in our travels. Well done Mudgee!

It is a quaint town with beautiful old buildings, nice parks, the river running through the town, all set in the beautiful valley surrounded by tree covered hills. The roses and other fragrant flowers in full bloom as it is Spring. We enjoy coffee at a cafe across the road from the Mudgee Public Library. I had done a job here years ago as a library system software consultant and wanted to bring Mick here to see this lovely country town.

As recommended by a friend, we drive north to The Drip at the Goulburn National Park. This unique rocky gorge borders the Goulburn River which was running clear, shallow, and amber in the sunshine. Birds called out from the trees with a unique and varied chorus of voices; some I have never heard before.

The Drip is similar to The Garden at Carnarvon Gorge. Water from the plateaus above seep down into the rocky layers and emerge at the river. The water drips constantly giving life to a greenery of ferns, mosses and other plants. The river hits the embankment veranda at The Drip then turns to run alongside it, amplifying the echoing cascades. I imagine on hot summer days the locals come here to loll about in the river.

Many older folks were out in gangs power-walking the uneven path. A well-attired young family wander and stop frequently to take those perfect shots for social media trying to be ‘influencers’ and fund their travels. Some rangers stop to help a very old lady carrying a walking stick. She had obviously fallen over and she sat on a wooden seat with blood dripping from her forehead. A gaggle of old women gathered around providing comfort and care. This walk is really not ideal for people who need walking sticks as it is quite rough, sandy in parts, and uneven.

From Mudgee we head further south following directions on my smartphone Maps app; maybe not the wisest option. Our road atlas shows this as a viable route too. We cut across the east-west arterials between Dubbo, Sydney, Lithgow, and Canberra. The road deteriorates while the scenery is beautiful. Green fields with lovely hills and mountains beyond. It rains a little. Mick turns the steering wheel back and forth all day as we wind up and down the steep mountain roads. The white lines on the road disappear altogether and we wonder if we have gone wrong somewhere.

Eventually we emerge at Goulburn then continue south to Tarago and Braidwood. Up and over the Great Dividing Range we drive through state forest that was burnt in last year’s savage bushfires. But the tall trees look strong and healthy with new growth sprouting up the trunks. The new undergrowth is green and tree ferns sprout healthy new fronds. Cicadas buzz happily.

State Forest Great Dividing Range near Batemans Bay NSW

We arrive at Bateman’s Bay in the early afternoon, once again on the coast.