The Devil’s Marbles NT

The Devil’s Marbles Hotel is in the middle of nowhere, probably the middle of Australia. It has a charm about it and appears to be well-managed. We park behind the hotel in the rocky caravan park alongside other caravanners, surrounded by a tin fence that creaks with the strong overland wind.

The Devil’s Marbles NT

A short drive of eleven kilometres back along the Stuart Highway takes us to the site of the awesome Devil’s Marbles. These huge spherical orange rocks are unique amidst a landscape of flat angular rocks.

It is an aboriginal site and so there are signs everywhere asking that people do not climb on the rocks or take photos of some sections of the rocky outcrops. I try to honour their wishes, but my thought is that it is a natural human inclination to climb up and over rocks, especially when they are a unique phenomenon. We don’t climb on the rocks but follow the designated walking tracks, one of which goes up to a lookout on top of a section of the rocks.

Back at the hotel we go to the beer garden for shade, beer, and lasagna for dinner. We talk to other travelers. A trio of older friends, now Aussies, retain their strong South African accent. They love the Australian outback. I tell them about the big tiger snake we saw on the road south of Tennant Creek that day, luckily not squashing it with the car tyres. Another couple from Adelaide have mechanical problems with their Jeep Cherokee and look like they will be stranded in this caravan park for quite a while. I am reminded of the Australian classic Wake in Fright and dream of that during the night. I am glad to leave the next day and head north back towards Tennant Creek again and then further north.

Meanwhile the numbers of people contracting the virus is increasing dramatically. In Victoria is it out of control now and wearing masks is mandatory for the whole state. More cases emerge in New South Wales and now Queensland too thanks to some selfish ignorant women.

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