explore Australia – Page 6 – Mick & Sue's Aussie Adventure

March 27, 2020April 5, 2020

Dash for the Border

We were in Cue of the Western Australian goldfields when the Northern Territory Minister announced they were closing the borders for possibly six months. This put a pause to our travel plans as we were heading north and planned to eventually cross over into the NT and then to Darwin.

Then the Western Australian Premier stated that “Anyone planning to travel to Western Australia – DON’T!” Yes, well what about all the people who were already in Western Australia travelling around in caravans and vans? His message placed an attitude of “you are not welcome”.

Then both the South Australian borders and Western Australian borders were going to be closed on Tuesday 24 March. So, we decided then and there on Sunday at 3pm to pack up and make a dash for the border. It would be a close call as we were a long way away: 1,643 kilometres.

I really think that the state premiers did not consider the caravanners at all and made no concessions for us. We don’t have a home to return to because it is currently rented out. And many caravanners just own their caravan and that is their permanent home. If the premiers had said to the travelers that you have 72 hours if you wish to return to your home state, otherwise make plans to stay somewhere for a while that would have been a sensible prospect. We considered going to the coast near Geraldton where we might have to stay, and I even contacted a caravan park and paid a deposit. But of course, we didn’t know how long it would be and if either of us did contract the virus then it would be difficult being so far from family, etc. So, we dashed.

We travelled for three and a half days nonstop except for nighttime roadside stops to sleep. We didn’t shower and our only contact with other people was a brief hello at roadside stops, petrol stations, and buying food and coffee. We travelled 3,440 kilometres to arrive at Mick’s brothers house in Horsham where we can self-isolate effectively for fourteen days.

The unseen problem for the travelers was that the announcement stated the border as the place of closure: South Australia by 4pm. So, we assumed like everyone else that this meant the actual border at BorderVillage near Eucla.

On the Tuesday morning we woke early at 4am and so decided we may as well drive on to the border crossing that was only about 300 kilometres away. We drove in the dark through fog watching for kangaroos. It was tense. Hundreds of caravans and other vans were camped at the roadside stops as we passed.

At the border there was nothing, no checking, no stoppages and we drove straight through into South Australia. There was a long queue of caravans waiting to be checked coming through to Western Australia. We were confused, until I received a message from a fellow traveler who said they got through the checkpoint at Ceduna okay. Ceduna! At the other end of the Nullarbor Plain! That was at least five hours away: 482 kilometres!

We dashed. The road on the Nullarbor Plain is narrow with no aprons, uneven and windy in places. And there were literally thousands of cars, caravans, vans, road trains, and wide load trucks speeding for the borders in both directions. It was so dangerous. If the State Premiers had stopped to think they would have seen the absurdity of mobilizing all these people unnecessarily. I’m sure most of these people would have been happy to stay put in a designated place if given the option. So instead all these people were just adding further potential for spreading the virus across the borders.

How many got caught out thinking they would make the border in time only to realise belatedly that the check point was not actually at the SA border, I can only guess.

We made the checkpoint at Ceduna with forty-five minutes to spare, weren’t questioned by police, didn’t have to fill in a statutory declaration, and didn’t have to officially commit to the fourteen days of self-isolation. But all those travelers behind us – where were they going to self-isolate?

I took photos of the sky as we traveled. Beautiful rainbows splashed across the sky several times and I took this as a promise of right decisions and good things ahead.

We arrived in Renmark close to the Victorian border and got into a caravan park there. The lady spoke to me over the phone as she was in the office behind the closed door. She asked if our caravan was self-contained, which it is. And although we could use the caravan park amenities, I think she was preparing for a time where the park closes and the caravanners must fend for themselves on site. It is a lovely caravan park on the banks of the Murray River and in different times we would stay longer. But in the morning, we decided to get over the border into Victoria at least just in case they decide to close that border too.

Sky and landscape while traveling across states

In contact with our family, we decided to head for Horsham where we could be self-sufficient and self-isolate just to be sure we hadn’t picked up the germ in transit somewhere.

We are lucky to be able to park our caravan, hook up to power and water, and have the use of a little cabin that is on the property. We really appreciate this in these challenging times. We shopped for groceries at the local store, and now are into our own lockdown.

After a good sleep I got up to do some yoga, have a shower in the caravan, and do some clothes washing, while Mick washes the mud and red dirt off the car and caravan.

Our planned once-in-a-lifetime Big Lap of Australia ended. Hopefully Mick and Sues Aussie Adventure can continue in the future once this virus pandemic has run its course (and we survive).

March 19, 2020March 19, 2020

Cue WA

Clouds cluster and the sunlight vanishes. The two-story building stands empty and alone in a stony field. The front façade made of grey stone veiled under a patina of red dust. White wooden front doors that once welcomed members to this lodge, now closed forever.

Eight darkened windows arranged in perfect symmetry aside an elaborate portico that extends to the roof and is donned with a tower-like cap. French doors once opened onto a small verandah above. Decorative white painted iron filigree now rusting with neglect. Red dusty corrugated iron covers the faded green roof and other external walls.

I ignore the call of the crows as I reach for my camera. Through the lens, a blur; was that a movement behind the upper window? I lower the camera and look to check; nothing. The crows cry out. I take two photographs and turn. Suddenly I feel the flap and puff of feathers against my face as the crow swoops. I look up and the second crow swoops aiming for my face below my hat. I dash along the empty street with hands above my head to ward off the black spirits as they pursue me. I need no further convincing. This is just one of several haunted houses in this once prosperous gold-mining town of Cue.

Gold was discovered here in 1892 and the town was named after Tom Cue who registered the claim. Like other towns in the goldfields region of Western Australia, Cue was a hive of activity during the early 1900’s. Nowadays the town still operates despite a main street of empty shops. Large mining concerns operate in this area and road trains barrel back and forth through town all day and night not slowing to the 60 kilometre limit. Some of these long-wheelers have five trailers attached.

Tourists like us also visit especially during the cooler months of the year. The main attractions are gold-fossicking, aboriginal rock art, heritage buildings, and the wildflower season. At the moment it also has a secondary attribute as a remote recluse during this COVID-19 pandemic.

March 18, 2020March 18, 2020

Coogee Beach WA

The Omeo was a steamer built in England in 1858. During her life she carried passengers and cargo around Australian coasts and New Zealand. She suffered several collisions including one which demolished the Swanspit Lighthouse in Port Phillip Bay. She finally ran aground at Hamelin Bay in Western Australia in 1895 destroying part of the jetty there.

The wreck now rests just off the beach in shallow water at Coogee Beach. It offers easy access for novice scuba-divers and snorkelers. The wreck holds its shape well enough to show the form of the old ship from bow that juts out of the sea to mast and stern. Fish live here and we joined others exploring this underwater fish hotel. We saw many varieties and sizes including a school of black and yellow fish striped like bumblebees.

Meanwhile above the surface COVID-19 ensues. We increased the vigilance of personal hygiene in the shared public amenities of a caravan park. And not being real social animals by nature, our duo of isolation is so far working well in the caravan. So far, we had not seen anyone wearing a mask anywhere, not even in Perth. Of course, this pandemic is a worry, and we think of our family and their extended families in other parts of Australia where population density is crowded. We also worry about what may come, but then we are all together in that.

Coogee Beach is the perfect location for exploring the coast near Perth. We walked to the beach each day for a gorgeous swim where others jumped off the jetty or swam in the netted area. We could walk to the Omeo for some snorkeling or to the new marina and apartment buildings for a coffee or shopping. We enjoyed a lovely meal at Coogee Common which we mistook for the Coogee Hotel because this sign was on the top of the old building. Instead of fish in batter with chips, salad and beer we enjoyed a tasty chef prepared meal and an excellent (expensive) Pinot Noir. Oh well!

We spent a day at Rottnest Island which was wonderful, leaving from Fremantle Port. We drove up to Cottesloe for a swim and lunch. There was a beach sculpture exhibition attracting groups of school children and many others. On Saturday morning we drove to Fremantle and walked around the shops. A watercolour painting exhibition was on in an art gallery in a heritage building and so we admired these works and chose our favourites.

March 13, 2020March 13, 2020

Smile Like A Quokka

The quokka nibbled on a piece of lettuce near the feet of a woman lunching in a café at Rottnest Island. I think she had put the lettuce on the ground for the quokka despite instructions to NOT feed the quokkas. A waiter came past and swiftly picked up the lettuce without pausing.

Quokkas are very cute marsupials and with an upward mouth it looks like they are smiling. They are not afraid of humans and won’t hop away too far when you approach, perfect for photos of small smiling furry wildlife.

The trip across from Fremantle on the Rottnest Express ferry was great fun. The staff are very friendly and efficient. There are nice seats and views from the windows. It was quite rough and so we bounced about with the swell and I didn’t get seasick at all which was great. I loved the thirty-minute rolling ride.

Bright red bikes were handed out with helmets to those that had hired them. This was the first time I have been on a bike since The Great Vic Bike Ride back in November. We rode off to explore the island with map in hand and backpacks with water, fruit, and snorkeling gear.

It is a lovely island to cycle around with little rolling hills, sealed roads, few cars, and exquisite scenery. Each new bay revealed another glorious beach inviting us in. Lots of other people were doing this too, so there were bikes parked at every lookout and beach.

After a loop of half of the island we headed to a little cove where we swam and snorkeled for a couple of hours. The water clear and the temperature perfect. Fish of many sizes, shapes and colour swam about in an underwater garden of rocks, seagrass and coral. I saw a couple of quite big fish, maybe 40 or 60 cm long. It’s hard to judge size underwater. It was bliss floating with the currents in the sheltered cove, looking about at the scene below.

We had a snack at a café which was popular with tourists and quokkas, then cycled back to the pier to catch the ferry back to Fremantle.

March 11, 2020March 11, 2020

Perth

Another ant nips my foot, sweat drips from my brow, I need another drink of water. Another jet rumbles nearby and I lift my gaze to catch a glimpse through the trees as it lumbers skyward.

We are in Perth staying at a caravan park close to the city and the airport. There is a small inviting swimming pool that helps to cool us in the heat of the day. The park is near the Swan River and we enjoy several walks along the river trail.

On Sunday we visit the CBD to shop. I want to buy the book “So You Want To Be A Writer” but no one seems to stock it on the shelves. Mick needs new swim fins. And I need to restock a Chinese tea that I drink.

The State Library is open, and I tour the floors while Mick reads a newspaper. I interrupt the customer service staff with a question about membership for interstate visitors. Three of them at the desk were complaining about management. Are all library staff the same I wonder?

The Art Gallery is interesting, and we look at the Modern and Contemporary works. A young man with blue hair is posing in front of a large canvas of pastel pink while his friends take photos of him.

The Swan Bells are chiming as we wander along the ferry terminal. It’s too early for lunch so we pass by all the lovely waterside cafes. We drive to Kings Park where many people are having picnics on the green slopes overlooking the city and the river.

This is our second visit to Perth, and it is a lovely city. It has nice temperature, great public facilities such as paths, trails, bridges, ferries, public transport, parking, and freeways, beautifully situated on the winding river with many parks and waterways all open to public access. It appears to be a very livable city.

The following day we drive to the Swan Valley and then to Bel Rapids which is upstream of the Swan River. Unfortunately it is totally dry, but if there was water flowing, judging by the rocks it would be a fantastic set of rapids for white water rafting.

We find a lovely little tea room on the banks of the Swan River nearer to the city and enjoy salmon quiche in the shade looking out at the river.

March 9, 2020March 9, 2020

Peppermint Grove Beach

Peppermint green water of Geographe Bay, neon green grass, and eucalyptus green leaves of the gumtrees at the caravan park; Peppermint Grove is aptly named and is an oasis located within the dry salt inlets and marshes of the strip of land between Busselton and Bunbury.

The Australian Ringneck parrot shares the trees at the campground with a family of magpies, an occasional kookaburra, and hyperactive wattle birds. The Australian Ringneck has a green body, black head, and a distinctive yellow collar. This variety of parrot is not seen on the Mornington Peninsula where we call home. Each time I try to take a photo of one, it is gone before I am ready.

It was very relaxing surrounded by all this green and the campground is spacious set out generously on the grass under the pleasing variety of eucalypts. Also no dogs allowed which added to the serenity. A new variety of eucalypt caught my eye, with its bright yellow flowers and red bud caps. I looked it up and it is an Illyarrie Red-Capped Gum (Eucalyptus Erythrocorys). The bees and birds were loving it as much as me.

The beach fronts onto the large Geographe Bay and stretches into the distance in both directions. The water is a gorgeous shade of green distinctive as the Indian Ocean. It is perfect for swimming as it drops quickly to a nice depth. Few people were on the beach.

A walk down Busselton Jetty cost us four dollars each for the privilege, and we passed on the train ride and aquarium. We wanted the exercise and like walking out on piers, and we had visited that aquarium once before on a previous visit. It is a lovely foreshore area with designated netted swimming areas, cafes, and a great playground. Local school children were having swimming lessons in one section of the netted swimming areas.

We took a day trip to Bunbury which is an interesting location as it has the beach front to Geographe Bay, another inner bay with a large industrial port, then a deeper inlet. The parks along the beachfront, bay beach, and inlet are nicely set out with bike trails, swimming areas, boat ramps, parking, and lookouts. We had lunch at the Back Beach Café looking out to sea where quite a few large ships idled. Bunbury is not a pretty town but it is interesting.

March 5, 2020March 6, 2020

Swings and Roundabouts

The crisp white wine seeped into our alcohol deprived cells at the Swings & Roundabouts winery in the Margaret River region of Western Australia. It is a good name for a wine when you think about it because it gives credence to the good years and bad years that underpin the art of viticulture.

‘Swings and roundabouts’ also describes the art of caravan life. There is a saying “Wherever you go, there you are.” So we still carry our habitual neuroses. We worry about our family. We miss our granddaughters. Our aches and pains remain. All the usual baggage comes along for the trip. Some days are good days and others not so good. And there are a multitude of other factors that come into the mix.

The touchstones of gratitude, positivity, and ‘being in the now’, soaking in the experience, are helpful as always.

The wine was underwhelming. The lunch was nice. The setting on the green lawn under gumtrees on a gorgeous autumn day in the Margaret River region was perfect. The wine unsettled us and we could not relax.

We arrived in the Margaret River region on the Monday of a long weekend and it was busy. It reminds me a lot of Red Hill on the Mornington Peninsula and was just as busy with people swarming the wineries, cafes, and beaches. I don’t like crowds at the best of times.

We swam every day at Yallingup snorkeling in the rocky reef near the shore, spotting many varieties of fish in the sheltered pool. It is a beautiful beach, but sadly lacked any surf while we were there. Not that we surf, but we do enjoy watching others ride the waves.

We chose not to visit any of the caves because we have been in many caves in our lives and baulked at the entry fee.

The town of Margaret River is nothing special in my view; just a country town. There were road works going on in the main street causing chaos and taking away any ambience that might exist. We looked at the shops and bought a coffee then moved on for a quick look at Prevelly Beach; still no surf.

Ready to head up towards Perth we move slowly north along the coast.

March 3, 2020March 4, 2020

Southern Forests WA

Grandma Tingle is 400 years old at least, and you can see from her knobby features that this is true. She stands surrounded by her extended family of Tingle trees in the Southern Forests region of Western Australia.

Rain fell lightly as we steadied ourselves on the swaying structure of the treetop walk at the Valley of the Giants near Walpole. It was stunning up in the canopy of these awesome trees. Then we wove our way at ground level along the track with a joyous chorus of wet frogs calling the way.

We stayed at the caravan park on the Denmark River next to the large lake of Wilson Inlet, which unfortunately had a pervading putrid smell that we could not escape. The pretty pictures belie the unfortunate experience of other senses.

It was indeed pretty, with pelicans, ducks, wildflowers, and stunning beaches. We took a day trip to Albany and had a look at the port and not much else.

Keen for some fresh clean air we went to Windy Harbour. This is another location Mick had pinpointed on the map as perhaps a good fishing location. Situated in the D’Entrecasteaux National Park the drive was beautiful through the Southern Forests full of giant trees like nothing I have seen before. Their trunks are straight, solid and do not decrease much in diameter as the tree reaches skyward.

Nearer Windy Harbour at the coast the forest stopped to reveal low native coastal scrub full of orange wildflowers, kangaroos, and emu. Windy Harbour is off-grid, low cost, and full of old fishing shacks. The long weekend attracted families and so the place was full. We walked to Point D’Entrecasteaux along the coast track and past Cathedral Rock. Nearby Salmon Beach is a popular spot for surf fishing and others told us of seeing sharks just two metres from the shoreline. We didn’t swim there but did have a dip at the sheltered rocky beach at Windy Harbour.

Windy Harbour D’Entrecasteaux National Park WA

Kangaroos hopped about the camp not fearful of the campers. One family of roos had a distinguishing white mark on their brows. Something I have not seen before. One young roo had a trident type marking. I wish I had captured his portrait. Gorgeous little birds flitted about the camp. Some I identified from my bird book as Superb Blue Wrens; the other yellow birds I could not identify as it was hard to see their markings as they darted about. Windy Harbour got windy and it was time to move on. We drove through some gorgeous forest and rural farmland of the region. The road was narrow in places, windy and hilly, so Mick had to concentrate on driving while I took in the forest of green.

February 29, 2020February 29, 2020

A Season of Caravan Life

It is three months since we began this caravan life. Summer is over on this leap day of 2020.

Here are some observations from our trip so far and reflections on this lifestyle:

This caravan is perfect for us. 2017 Royal Flair Aussie Mate 18 foot with solar panels, gas, and double electrical systems. Comfortable queen size bed. Shower, toilet, kitchen, adjustable table, awning, off-road capacity, great fly screens and adjustable windows and vents. We don’t bump into each other very much and are quite comfortable.
Our setup and packup routines are very good now and we both have our tasks that we attend to. Mick gets the tow hitch ready while I pack away the inside bits and pieces and close all the windows and hatches. I attend to the water and power connections and four feet stabilisers while Mick gets out the jack and hitch bars, turns off the gas, gets the car cable connections ready, and packs away the camp chairs and table. Then I indicate the position of the tow hitch while Mick backs the car into position. Together we attach the chains and tow bars and pack away all the tools.
The awning gets retracted first though and despite our early mistakes we have got this routine now, although we still must pause and think about the steps. We can do it in the dark, which is necessary if the wind comes up during the night.
On the road Mick drives the car with the caravan while I navigate. He looks out for road trains and other vehicles, while I tell him how far to the next town, look for fuel stops, caravan parks, rest stops, and points of interest. We both look for wildlife.
I cook most of the meals, and Mick cooks on the barbeque sometimes.
Caravan parks differ quite a lot. Some are surprisingly fantastic while others disappoint. If the amenities facilities are clean that is a good sign. The best amenities so far have been the drop toilets and solar showers at Lucky Bay in the Cape Le Grande National Park. They even have beautiful solid jarrah doors.
We like being off-grid and recently replaced the three-year-old caravan batteries. Hopefully this will extend our off-grid capacity.
Meeting people as we go is interesting. Some are similar to us. There are many older retirees and pensioners. There are a lot of young European couples travelling in small vans. And far too many dogs for my liking.
Mick always befriends our neighbours and he is very kind to them. We have gained Facebook friends, travelers who keep in contact via email, and others we know by name that we see at various spots who are making this trip similarly to us.
Daily routines have emerged naturally. We usually move with the sun, rising when it gets light and the birds awake, and retiring when it gets dark. If we are on-grid we will watch a bit of TV. That morning coffee is something we look for naturally; on the road we find a town with a café; at camp I will make one using the coffee plunger. Mick will fish, fossick, or read a novel. I take photographs, write, sketch, or read. I make simple sketches to send as postcards to our little granddaughters.
Staying in one place for more than four nights makes us stir crazy and ready to move on. Two or three nights is perfect.
Internet access is essential. This is how we stay in touch with the world: daily news, staying in touch with family and friends, podcast episodes, apps for fuel stops, wikicamps, maps, photos, updating the blog, and tourist information. 4G on my phone will assist us greatly while we are on the road. If it drops to 3G we lose the connection. Sometimes we have no service especially in National Parks, but that is accepted as part of the fun. Disconnection can be fantastic at times.
Wearing shorts, t-shirts, and hats every day. Swimming almost every day. Walks and hikes most days.
We read novels that come our way either by swapping with other campers, or in a book exchange in the town or caravan park.
The Triton is not overheating. The caravan awning is fixed. The caravan batteries are new.
We don’t spend a lot of money. The major costs are unsurprisingly fuel, food, and campsite fees. Totals: Fuel $2,545; Campsites $2,068; Food and groceries $3,447; Coffee $476; Beer and wine $948 (includes Christmas and New Year). Averages to $790 per week.
We have travelled 11,266 kilometres since 1^st December 2019. This includes sightseeing trips without the caravan on tow.
This travelling expedition of Australia is fantastic, but not a lifestyle we aim to keep. A home base in a house near to family is where we will return when this trip is over.

February 26, 2020March 6, 2020

Esperance and Lucky Bay WA

Someone is playing a harmonica. The soulful tune floats in and out with the wind, accompanied by a tympany of insect trills, and a background rhythm of waves breaking on the shore then exhaling out. I drift off to sleep.

We are at Lucky Bay in the Cape Le Grande National Park. Matthew Flinders named this bay in 1802 when he explored the coast. It is a harsh rugged dry Australian beauty.

Lucky Bay Cape Le Grande National Park WA

As a National Park we were off grid, but the drop toilets and solar showers are the best we have come across by far. Very clean and modern with solid jarrah timber doors. There is no phone reception, or power, and you must book ahead as the camp is fully booked. No pets allowed thankfully.

As soon as we arrived, I made a trip to the amenities and as I returned, I was looking one way while walking another. I heard a sound in the gravel that made me turn instinctively. I stopped in my tracks because there on the path just two steps ahead was a large thick black snake crossing the path. It looked at me sideways then continued on its way scurrying into the sparse scrub. I have been vigilant looking out for snakes and was not in the headspace within the centre of the campground.

We swam in the pristine light aqua waters bobbing happily as the water temperature is perfect: refreshing but not chilly. A bit of snorkelling in the shallows near the rocks at the end of the beach revealed fish darting around the sea grass and kelp. Kangaroos do indeed hop onto this beach perfect for the IG photos. It is also a mecca for the IG poser photos, and one wonders if people realise how ridiculous they look pouting and propping in their brief swimwear. Many drive in, take the photo, then drive out. Is that an authentic experience?

We hiked to Frenchmen’s Peak, Thistle Cove, and Little Hellfire Bay. These were challenging and not for couch potatoes. Steep rocky outcrops tested my fitness, knees, and balance. My Merrell hike boots were a savior and I stuck to the sides of the mountains like Tom Cruise scaling Burj Khalifa in Dubai. I actually opted out of Frenchmen’s Peak halfway up, but Mick reached the top of the beret. The walk to Hellfire Bay was almost as difficult but didn’t feel quite as exposed. The views of the coast are amazing, the flora and fauna unique, and the skinny-dip at Little Hellfire Bay as pure as a baptism.

Frenchmen’s Peak Cape Le Grande National Park WA

Prior to this we stayed at Pink Lakes Caravan Park in Esperance. There are quite a few caravan parks in the area, but it is a busy spot and campsites are in hot demand. Travelers are constantly moving in and out; families, young Europeans, retirees, too many dogs.

The beaches along the surf coast of the town are stunning, and quite simply the best beaches I have seen in Australia. I once thought that Bridgewater Bay in Victoria was the best beach, but these trump that by far. The water is aqua, clear, nice temperature and good for surfers. We saw dolphins at West Beach near a group of surfers. There would be sharks and the warning signs confirm that. We swam at Twilight Beach and Blue Haven not venturing out into the depths but happy to dip and bob in the waves.

Miles from anywhere Esperance is under-developed and there is so much vacant land on the hills overlooking the beaches ripe for buildings. Despite the great surf beaches the town does not have an atmosphere of surf culture which is unfortunate. The large industrial port dominates the town esplanade beach that has great facilities for walking, picnics, boating, and fishing.