explore Australia – Mick & Sue's Aussie Adventure

July 31, 2023August 20, 2023

Trip Review of Western Australia and Northern Territory 2023

Our recent trip to Western Australia and the Northern Territory was in order to complete our Big Lap of Australia that we began in December of 2019. Due to the global pandemic, we missed out on travelling into the Pilbara, Kimberley, and Red Centre. So, this quick trip was to see those regions that we had missed.

Winter is a busy time for people travelling to the northern parts of Australia and I initially booked our stay at Broome with this in mind. I was also aware of school holiday periods for those states. And it was busy. The days of the Grey Nomad are a thing of the past, and nowadays there are just as many families travelling, many fulltime. There were kids everywhere.

From my desk at home, I formed an itinerary using WikiCamps and booked into key locations such as El Questro, Katherine, Kings Canyon, and Yulara. And I am glad I did because everywhere we went it was full and often booked out. Especially at Kununurra due to the unseasonal rainfall that caused unforeseen road closures in the region.

It is really tricky doing this type of forward planning when travelling across such large distances in Australia. How do you know you will actually get to that destination by the right date?

The other problem with booking (or not booking) is that many places use online booking systems, so if you are in a remote area with no internet connection this is impossible. The online booking systems used by the states for their National and State Parks are awful, and often outbooked with people who actually don’t show up for their prebooking. Really this system needs to be rectified to allow people into these special places. Places like the coast along the Ningaloo Reef. Good luck trying to get a booking there when you want it.

We left home in Victoria and made a beeline to the west coast staying overnight at free camps roadside. After six days and 3,854 kilometres we had traversed the continent and looked out to a choppy Indian Ocean at Jurien Bay in Western Australia.

We stayed a couple of nights at Yardie Homestead near Exmouth and snorkeled at Turquoise Bay.

We arrived in Broome and were lucky to have been assigned a beachside campsite with gorgeous views across Roebuck Bay. We settled into Broometime and enjoyed the warm weather for nine days.

Campsite at Roebuck Bay Broome Western Australia

We then headed north having decided to tackle the Gibb River Road. With prior experience of the Peninsula Development Road in Cape York of Queensland we felt prepared for the corrugations.

Staying at the large station campgrounds was easy, and walking to the absolutely awesome waterfalls and swimming in the waterholes was a real highlight of this trip. And although lots of people were out in this remote region doing the same thing, it was enjoyable.

Happy place – any old waterfall will do. Galvans Gorge, Gibb River Road, WA

Then the rain hit, and the road was closed trapping many travellers at locations along the Gibb River Road. The fine for not following this restriction was $1,000 per wheel! Luckily for us we were at the end of this road and could easily travel to the El Questro station. The rain continued, but we fitted in some more amazing walks and swims. The campground here was the most crowded and the campsites the narrowest we have experienced. We were all jammed in, and it was raining.

We were booked to stay at Purnululu (the Bungle Bungles) but the roads were closed here too, so we had to cancel that part of our trip. We drove north to Wyndham and the caravan park there was really lovely. The scenery here continued to be panoramic and interesting.

Bastion Lookout at Wyndham Northern Territory

I had booked the campsite in Kununurra luckily because with the rain, road closures, and school holidays, the caravan parks were all full. The showgrounds were absorbing the extras.

From Kununurra we left Western Australia and drove east into the Northern Territory. Here our Big Lap was completed as we stayed at a caravan park in Katherine that we had stayed at during our previous travels.

We didn’t go to Darwin or Kakadu as we had visited these places last time in 2020. Instead, we headed south to the Red Centre. We stayed in Alice Springs for two nights mainly so that we could get the car serviced. Then out to Watarrka (Kings Canyon) and Yulara and Uluru. We had visited these places 29 years ago with our children, and it was a real eye-opener to see how things have changed. Everyone has their hand out for something. It all costs and it is expensive. Commerciality is King. And with the huge numbers of people travelling out there it is like a conveyor belt and the providers don’t seem to care much about anyone. Good friendly customer service is rare. And the necessary amenities are in poor condition and overused.

Camped on a patch of red dirt in the overflow campground at Yulara Northern Territory

We left this region with a very negative opinion and don’t plan to go back there anytime soon.

From the Red Centre we made another beeline back home. We had had enough so we travelled 933 kilometres into South Australia and stayed at a roadside stop on the Stuart Highway. We did not hesitate when passing through the infamous breakdown spot on the Stuart Highway, or at Cooby Pedy where we had spent far too much time back in 2021. The next day we drove south through a lot of road works to Port Augusta, through Adelaide, and then east towards Victoria, 1,106 kms.

Sunset at Mulga Wells Stuart Highway South Australia

On our last night we stayed in a motel in Horsham because it was winter afterall. In the morning the closed Dingo and our car were covered in a layer of ice. It was a comfortable drive through Melbourne avoiding the peak hour traffic. We were glad to be home on the Mornington Peninsula.

As far as the comparison between travelling with a caravan compared to a camper trailer, all I can say is that there are advantages and disadvantages with both. We adapted quickly to life with the Dingo Camper Trailer, and would not have enjoyed travelling along the Gibb River Road with a caravan.

We spent 50 days and travelled 14,288 kilometres. Our biggest cost unsurprisingly was on fuel $3,723. We spent $2,633 on campsites.

Here is the map of our completed trip:

July 19, 2023July 19, 2023

Our Red Centre

It is Bastille Day and we are watching the sun set at Uluru with about 250 of our fellow tourists. I say “Bonne Journée” to the French tourists beside me and they appreciate that I acknowledge their National Day.

At my right elbow a nutty woman tries her hardest to get her head into my photos, bobbing about like a lunatic; not happy I’ve asked her politely if I could stand in the vacant space beside her.

Jimmy Barnes sings “Flame Trees” loudly from someone’s audio system and the lyrics and Aussie vibe are perfect for the glowing red of Uluru in sunset.

Popular photo shots are: sideways mouth open eating the rock; squatting like a strong man holding up the rock with two hands; glamorous look at the camera, no too bright, look away then back, no still squinting; couples, families, families wearing sunglasses, friend groups; and the ever popular jump-in-the-air with hands and feet up.

The sun set and we join the single queue of vehicles driving the twenty kilometres back to Yulara in the twilight.

Back in 1994 we visited Watarrka (Kings Canyon), Uluru (Ayers Rock), and Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), with our three offspring then children. And a lot has changed in the 29 years since then. The roads are better. The walking trails are easier, some paved. The campgrounds have relocated and are bigger able to accommodate up to 1,000 campsites. There are far more people out here enjoying the authentic Australian outback experience.

However, we repeatedly note the absence of wildlife. Where are the kangaroos, emu, lizards, goannas? There is not even much roadkill. We do see a couple of dingos near Curtain Springs. Mostly we see wandering stock, mostly cattle. There isn’t even that many flocks of birds, and hardly any parrots. Why aren’t the environmentalists being loud and vocal about this?

Watarrka (Kings Canyon)

The Kings Creek walk is now an easy amble along a path beside the rocky dry creek bed between the canyon cliffs to a raised platform that designates the end of the trail. Back in 1994 we rock scrambled much further up the creek to room-sized boulders at the end of the gorge. With the danger of rock falls I understand the logic of creating this block.

Kings Creek walk at Watarrka National Park

The next day we are woken at the campground by a chorus of howling dingoes, a half moon hanging above the morning silhouette of Carmichael’s Crag in the distance.

Sunrise with silhouette of Carmichael’s Crag at King’s Canyon Campground

We make an early start for the three – four-hour difficult Rim Walk and are surprised to see the carpark full already and a stream of ants (people) making their way up the stone stairway of the steep ridge. Back in 1994 this section was no more than a slippery scree goat track.

Rim Walk at Watarrka July 2023 and July 1994

Already there are people standing up on the distant lookout calling “cooee”. Large groups are already ahead of us; schools, international tourists, grey nomad gangs, and family troupes. Key photo locations are slow as everyone aims to get their own special selfie, or large groups gather making sure everyone is in place.

Cycad palms at Watarrka July 1994 and July 2023

The walk itself is beautiful, the defined colours and shapes of the ancient cliffs, domes, and plateaus are a geologist’s paradise.

Looking over the cliffs at Watarrka 2023 and 1994

We take a break at the quiet waterhole in the Garden of Eden, even the large groups rest here in silence. It is a lovely walk and I’m glad we did it.

Mick at the waterhole in the Garden of Eden Watarrka

We enjoy our stay at Watarrka and are enthusiastic to move on to Yulara and Uluru.

Uluru (Ayers Rock) and Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)

What to say about Uluru? Back in 1994 Yulara consisted of a basic campground, one resort, and an outback hotel. Now there is a whole town with a supermarket, post office, café’s, restaurants, galleries, and more accommodation.

Back in 1994 I was 34 years of age when we climbed Uluru with our children. Now it is not allowed and when I look at the steep climb it makes sense. It is too dangerous, and people underestimate their abilities and the effort required. The chain hand hold is gone. I expect there would be no insurance company willing to back this public risk nowadays. I think it is a good decision.

There is a freezing wind on the morning we decide to circumnavigate Uluru. It is eleven kilometres of flat clearly marked trail. I’ve always ascribed to the environmentalist’s notion of “take only photos and leave only footprints”. I think this philosophy shows the ultimate respect for a place. However, the local aboriginals do not want anyone to take photos of certain areas or features. Signs are up to state this fact saying these are sensitive areas with secrets that cannot be revealed to you or me. While I try to show blind respect, I also think this unique monolith is a scientific wonder with shapes and colours that excite my inner artist. I already have one oil painting hanging on my wall at home that I was inspired to create after our trip in 1994.

A female grey nomad tells me off rudely for taking a photo where there was no sign. I am confused and feel bullied by this politically correct know-it-all. The confrontation quickly denigrates into a ridiculous scene as both husbands have their say. I come to Uluru with a pure and humble heart; now this negativity ensues. It is disappointing.

So unfortunately, that mystical aura I felt keenly 29 years ago when I visited Uluru, has now been tainted by random prohibitions, commerciality, too many confusing signs and instructions, white, black, and brown appropriation, possessive need, fairy tales, and wrongly assigned political significance.

It is a rock after all; one that deserves every superlative of grandeur, but not the silly tales devised by short-lived humans of any race. That’s just my humble opinion.

Many tourists sign up for the expensive Segway tours and these troupes burl around the trail dodging walkers, joggers, and cyclists. I am nearly bowled over by a bloke on a Segway in a narrow section of the trail. The trail itself is bumpy with deep footprints left after the recent unseasonal rains.

It is a drone-free zone and I also think the scenic tour helicopters must also have to keep a certain distance from the rock. We do see people launching drones.

We drive the fifty kilometres out to Kata Tjuta and the walk up the two-kilometre rocky trail to the cold windy cleft between two giant domes where there is a small waterhole. Once again, this trail has been made easier since 1994 with bridges and walkways. As we descend the rocks a large group from a tour bus make their way up.

Entry to this National Park cost us $50 each, additional to our camp fees at Yulara. We are camped at the back of the overflow campground despite the fact that I booked a powered site. I made some sort of error using their online system. The reception lady is surly, distracted, and unhelpful.

Out back on a patch of red dirt we have no power or water and the constant noise from the huge industrial generators over the dune sound like 747’s about to take off at an airport. We decide to cut our stay short and leave early with bad feelings in our hearts. We won’t be back.

Ayers Rock Campground at Yulara at the back of the overflow section July 2023

The next day we drive into South Australia and head for home.

July 13, 2023August 20, 2023

Alice and the Devil’s Marbles

Our next booking after Katherine was behind the Devil’s Marbles hotel; 808 km away. So we knew we were in for a big day travelling south on the Stuart Highway.

We had stopped at Bitter Springs and Mataranka on our last trip so felt no need to revisit there. Also there were reports of an estuarine crocodile at Bitter Springs.

All of the small towns and roadside stops were busy with caravans everywhere. Plus a constant stream of caravans travelling north from South Australia for their school holiday break.

We drove through Tennant Creek and it is sad to see another town with abandoned boarded up shops and businesses.

We were surprised to see at the Devil’s Marbles hotel fifty or more caravans parked in the roadside stop. This used to be the truck parking area, but it appeared to now be a free camp.

About another thirty caravans were parked behind the hotel in the paid area and we were happy to be there.

The outside of the hotel looks shabby and covered in cobwebs, and has the look of being abandoned, but open the door and it was full of people sitting, drinking, and watching the TV. We had dinner there.

Beer o’clock at the Devil’s Marbles Hotel

Unfortunately the carnival was on the road travelling north and stayed overnight just outside the paid campground. They played loud music, shouted, and revelled until about 2am when someone went and told them to be quiet.

The next morning we drove the 11 kilometres back to the Devil’s Marbles. It was lovely to walk around these giant ovoid boulders in the fresh morning air.

From the Devil’s Marbles Hotel we drive south on a piece of Australia’s figure of 8 highway system that we have never been on before. And at the turnoff to Gemtree at the Plenty Highway we close that loop too. Although the map of the route looks more like a Kelpie chasing a tennis ball than a smooth clean infinity symbol.

Alice Springs is in a beautiful location ringed by the desert ranges. And so unique being in the centre of Australia.

The Discovery park there is big with excellent amenities and a great swimming pool setup for kids. It was too cold for us to take a dip.

Swimming pools at Discovery Parks Alice Springs

Mick had the car serviced and they replaced the dusty air filters. The chip in the windscreen has not worsened and will wait until we get home.

The nights here in Alice are cold and we put on the heater inside the camper.

Australian Ringneck Parrots scooted about the campground with other birds, looking for a feed.

I remember the Todd Mall as a lovely shopping precinct back in 1994 when we last visited. Unfortunately now most shops are closed and boarded up and mobs of restless aboriginals gather there all day looking miserable.

At the Tourist Information Centre the “customer service” man was appallingly rude and terse. He needs a holiday!

On our last night we are woken at about 2am by a car speeding along a road nearby. Then we hear a crash, then silence, then the horn blasted a couple of times, then quiet. We hope the person (AKA Idiot) got out unscathed. As we are leaving the next morning we see the dark sedan wrecked and abandoned against the large boulders in the centre of the roundabout. Mick wonders how long that will remain there.

We are happy to leave this pretty but unhappy place. Our next stop is Watarrka (Kings Canyon) National Park. We visited there in 1994 with our three children.

July 8, 2023July 8, 2023

Closing the Loop at Katherine

Finally we close the loop at Katherine Northern Territory, completing our Big Lap of Australia.

What we started in December 2019 we achieved in July of 2023. This was not the Big Lap we had planned and plotted on WikiCamps. The global pandemic was the first interruption, then the delays with changing our rig. Life took over and we paused.

The Breeze Caravan Park in Cossack on the outskirts of Katherine is lovely with shady trees, plenty of space, and a good sized swimming pool. We stayed here twice in 2020. I love the warm weather and we sleep with the canvas windows open.

This time it is much busier. They have strict rules about dogs in the park which is sensible. Unfortunately there is a trend with kids and whip-cracking. What is going on? Parents just smile on encouragingly while all the native birds get scared witless and scoot off. I have heard some caravan parks have banned whip-cracking. Not here sadly.

We go into town where Mick gets a haircut. We go to the library to access some MyGov documents.

Last time we did the tour at Katherine Gorge and we decide not to do it this time. We hear it is very busy.

We drive out to Edith Falls. We did visit here last time but it is such a gorgeous place we wanted to go again. There is a small campground there that is hard to get into.

There is a large swimming hole near to the campground and a picturesque waterfall. We don’t swim there though, instead walking the 1.6 kilometres through the beautiful native bush land with Kapok trees full of yellow blooms.

We arrive at the top pool ready for a swim. People are already there enjoying the water or sunning on the rocks. The swim in the pool and under the waterfall is glorious. I am happy. It is such a beautiful unspoilt natural place.

As we walk back many people are walking in, noodles in hand. The car park is full, and more cars stream in as we drive back to the highway.

Back at camp, I prepare food for dinner and tomorrows long trip south. Mick goes fishing nearby in the Katherine River.

July 6, 2023July 7, 2023

Kununurra

A blood moon at twilight and a squadron of stealth bats fly overhead; thousands of flying foxes out on their nightly raid.

Under the tree canopies smaller bats flit about after insects.

We stalk the lake edge with torches in hand looking to catch the red eyes of crocs. We see many. We find one close to the low bank. I take a photo in the moonlight and it flips violently seeking refuge under the water lilies. Hearts beating faster we walk back along the moonlit grassy bank hearing splashes in the dark water, red eyes like traffic warning lights.

Kununurra is a surprising town. The waterways from the Ord River are significant and provide respite, produce, and a lifestyle. Here just on the outskirts of town they grow sandalwood, mangoes, bananas, corn, sorghum, and other crops.

The airport is busy with air traffic on the go daily.

At the moment the Fitzroy Crossing is closed once again so there is no route to Perth. Travellers reassess their travel plans. It is school holidays and families are stuck, so there are caravans everywhere.

Next week is the annual Kununurra show and there are caravans parked at the overflow site at the Showgrounds and they need to move. But to where?

We drive out to the famous Ivanhoe Crossing for a look. That too is closed to traffic. We knew this and had no plans to cross it anyway just for that IG photo. #ivanhoecrossing

Out on the curved wall stand two aboriginal men fishing with hand lines bracing themselves in the treacherous current. There are supposedly big estuarine crocs here too. We see them catch a good sized fish that they keep. Other people try their luck using rods from the safety of the bank, but no luck there.

Mick tries his luck in the lower Ord River on two mornings. Each day he catches a small Barramundi, too small to keep, but his first. He releases them back to the river so they have a chance to grow.

Mick caught this Barramundi in the Ord River

On our last day we drive out to Molly Spring. There is a small waterfall and a small nice swimming hole. A family is there enjoying the water. We are told there was a snake swimming in the waterhole and had now disappeared into the bank somewhere. After our experiences in the big waterfalls along the Gibb River Road we feel no need to swim here.

The next day we pack up and head towards the Northern Territory border. We have a booking at Katherine in the same caravan park we stayed at last trip in 2020.

Crossing the border into the Northern Territory

We had eaten all of our fruit and vegetables but there is no quarantine stop going this way.

July 3, 2023

Why Wyndham?

We drive further north heading for Wyndham with no preconceived ideas in our minds. Instead of heading south to our planned stay at the Purnululu National Park (the Bungle Bungles) we decide to visit Wyndham. I am disappointed because it is a place that has fascinated me for many years.

Wyndham lies at the delta where five major rivers meet: the Ord, Pentecost, Durack, King, and Forest. Although on the coast, the sea is beyond the horizon. There is an industrial port that still operates, including being a port for Kimberley cruise boats.

The town is a neglected and derelict place where dogs wander about the streets and fight in packs at night, we discover. Houses are in ruins with broken windows and walls, but still homes for the locals.

The caravan park though is one of the nicest we have stayed at. It has tall shady trees and green grass with generous campsites. It is well organised and managed. There is a swimming pool, a big Boab tree, and lots of birds. We see brown kites, blue winged kookaburras, barking owls, wattle birds, and the notorious “screaming woman” curlew.

The rain persists and this town that has the title of the hottest town in Australia, goes into a rare cold snap.

We look at the port, the old town, the jetty, and drive up The Bastion for panoramic views of the region. The colours are amazing even under low grey skies.

Mick wanders over to the football oval, home of The Crocs, and watches the teams of enthusiastic aboriginal players run around on the thick green grass in the rain.

Finally the rain stops and we try to dry out our clothes and the canvas tent top. Luckily we stayed warm and dry inside. The Dingo has proven itself in cold, wet, and windy conditions.

Mick cleans the car and camper trailer trying to get rid of the red dirt.

Next we go to Kununurra for three nights.

July 3, 2023July 3, 2023

The Gibb Day 9, 10, 11 – El Questro

After leaving Home Valley Station it is just nine kilometres of dirt road and we arrive at the wide but shallow Pentecost River, crossing safely.

There is sealed road so Mick pumps up the tyres. El Questro is not far and the drive in is another nine kilometres of dirt with two creek crossings and a deeper and narrower crossing of the Pentecost River.

The camp here is big and full with lots of caravans and families. The campsites are small and we fit snugly beside five other campers.

Planes and helicopters buzz in and out for expensive sightseeing tours.

We drive to Kununurra for supplies and it too is busy with people and caravans everywhere. I think by closing the Gibb River Road it has caused a logjam of travellers all waiting in hope the road will reopen. We feel lucky to have finished it in time.

Our planned trip to Purnululu National Park (the Bungle Bungles) has been cancelled for the same reason; road closed due to the unseasonal rain. So far there has been hardly any rain; just a light drizzle on our last night at Home Valley station.

Our morning bath was a soak in the beautiful thermal waters of Zebedee Springs amidst the Livitonia Palms. We get there early because it fills with people quickly and it is only a small area. It’s such a peaceful and rejuvenating way to start the day.

We enjoy a drink and pizza at the Swinging Arm Bar at El Questro with the @ville2vans friends chatting about waterfalls, walks, family, friends, and the “good old days” in Belgrave South.

On our second day we drive a short way then walk the Amalia Gorge trail. It is a lovely walk up a dry creek bed then scaling up and around rocky sections.

Red cliffs rise above and the creek gorge is filled with green trees, palms, and wildflowers.

Halfway along are two small waterfalls and two inviting swimming holes and we have a dip in both.

We continue on and the rock climbing gets a little more challenging. It is worth the effort and we arrive at the high single drop waterfall of Amalia Gorge. At the base is a large swimming hole. We are content sitting on the rocks in the sunshine. The walk back is just as nice.

Once again we meet the @ville2vans crew at the Swinging Arm Bar for Happy Hour. They had been to Emma Gorge and we compared experiences.

Jenny Sue and Sandy at The Swinging Arm Bar

It finally rains on our last day at El Questro. There is a mass exodus in the morning as travellers file out. I do the laundry and hang the clothes under our awning. We enjoy lunch at the Steakhouse restaurant.

It rains all night and the next day we pack up wet canvas and notice the Pentecost River has risen a little.

We head for Wyndham instead of Purnululu NP. So ends our Gibb River Road adventure. The road is still closed at the moment.

June 29, 2023June 29, 2023

The Gibb Day 7 & 8 – Home Valley Station

We opted to stay three nights at Home Valley Station based on the description on WikiCamps and that would fit with our booking at El Questro.

Mick wanted a powered site because our refrigerator was not charging well enough using the solar panels.

Our campsite is dismal amid ants nests and my skin itches from unseen midges. Flying foxes fill the night air, and toads live in the toilets and sinks. A huge stick insect visits the amenities.

Rain is forecast and the whole region goes into panic mode closing The Gibb River Road. We decide to wait it out and we get a few drizzly showers on the last night. Not even enough to make puddles.

We swim in the over chlorinated pool, read, and walk one of the trails. We get a bit lost on one trail then finally make it to Baldy’s Hill that has panoramic views across to the Cockburn Ranges and the Pentecost River. I take photos of wildflowers with my SLR camera.

The walking trail booklet is a glossy masterpiece but unfortunately most of the walks are closed due to lack of maintenance and the office lady neglected to tell me this when she handed it to me.

Getting lost in the tall grass at Home Valley Station with rain threatening

It appears that this station campground was once fantastic and has now fallen into neglect and disrepair. I hope they fix it as it is in a great location. I would not recommend it at the moment.

June 27, 2023

The Gibb Day 6 – Home Valley Station

Dingos howled at dawn as I lay awake in bed scratching the itchy midge bites on my legs.

The caravanners packed up early and were gone well before us. Except for naughty Pippa in a neighbouring caravan who was having a tantrum. Dad apologised to us for his son’s noise.

We packed up and drove up to the homestead for the legendary scones with jam and cream. The beautiful cafe is surrounded by tall shady trees and the birds flitted about.

Ellenbrae Station has certainly been the friendliest and most well managed and maintained station stay so far.

Back on the dirt road it deteriorated yet again. I think this is the worst section of the road. The red dirt replaced by a grey rock surface, obviously laid to fill the holes and corrugations. But the large rocks prove to be nasty and we stopped to check on a few travellers with flat damaged tyres. Most people are prepared with spares and tyre repair kits. Still it is important to stop in case anyone needs help.

Sometimes driving at 13 km/hr across corrugations that shook the car, trailer, and occupants. We crossed a few more creeks and the Durack River.

Eventually we emerged on a plateau with views across the plains to the Pentecost River and Cockburn Ranges. This craggy ridge line akin to the badlands in the USA that we see in movies.

We arrive at Home Valley Station that boasts about its amenities on WikiCamps but falls short of the hype.

The Pentecost River is just five kilometres within the station and after setting up camp we drive out for a look. People were fishing the wide tidal river knowing big salty crocs were in the muddy waters.

Back at camp we have a dip in the pool then later buy overpriced beer at the Dusty Bar with the @ville2vans friends who arrived here the same day. We all agreed this last section of road has been the worst.

Flying foxes shrieked and darted about in the warm night air.

We plan to stay here for three nights so we can recharge the batteries for our refrigerator, do some clothes washing, and Mick will fish.

We are almost at the end of the Gibb River Road. Just the Pentecost River to cross when we leave here on Wednesday bound for nearby El Questro.

We travelled 114 kilometres slowly.

June 27, 2023

The Gibb Day 5 – Galvans Gorge and Ellenbrae Station

Early the next morning we packed up, filled our water tank at Mt Barnett Roadhouse and backtracked fifteen kilometres to Galvans Gorge.

An easy ten minute walk in from the road revealed a little oasis with beautiful waterfall and swimming hole amidst the orange cliffs, white gums, and pandanus trees.

The water in the pool was the clearest yet and we swam across the fresh green pool to sit on a rock ledge under the fall.

Susan sitting under the waterfall at Galvans Gorge

Once again refreshed we left as the next troupe of people arrived to enjoy this unique natural beauty spot.

We refilled with fuel at Mt Barnett Roadhouse, $2.93 per litre, bought some food, then headed towards Ellenbrae Station.

The road got worse. More corrugations, more dips and holes. And since this road can be travelled in either direction, at this midway point we encountered many vehicles in both directions; dust plumes indicating their approach, then blinded momentarily in the dust cloud aftermath. The idiots from the previous night overtook us at speed. We wished them “well”.

We saw another black coloured snake on one of the many floodways. And we crossed several more creeks.

At Ellenbrae Station there is a choice between two camps. After checking which camp the idiots had chosen for the night, we chose the other. Fortunately it looked like the nicer campground with grass, shady trees, and a waterhole and creek nearby.

The amenities were rustic and quaint and I enjoyed the shower.

Amenities block at Ellenbrae Station campground

Soon the campground filled with lots of travellers especially families with kids, towing caravans. Most camps enjoyed campfires that night. Some kids had whips and the whip cracking drew a crowd of other kids. They don’t teach that at school!

The camp was quiet and we slept well after travelling 224 kilometres.