suesbent

June 27, 2023

The Gibb Day 5 – Galvans Gorge and Ellenbrae Station

Early the next morning we packed up, filled our water tank at Mt Barnett Roadhouse and backtracked fifteen kilometres to Galvans Gorge.

An easy ten minute walk in from the road revealed a little oasis with beautiful waterfall and swimming hole amidst the orange cliffs, white gums, and pandanus trees.

The water in the pool was the clearest yet and we swam across the fresh green pool to sit on a rock ledge under the fall.

Susan sitting under the waterfall at Galvans Gorge

Once again refreshed we left as the next troupe of people arrived to enjoy this unique natural beauty spot.

We refilled with fuel at Mt Barnett Roadhouse, $2.93 per litre, bought some food, then headed towards Ellenbrae Station.

The road got worse. More corrugations, more dips and holes. And since this road can be travelled in either direction, at this midway point we encountered many vehicles in both directions; dust plumes indicating their approach, then blinded momentarily in the dust cloud aftermath. The idiots from the previous night overtook us at speed. We wished them “well”.

We saw another black coloured snake on one of the many floodways. And we crossed several more creeks.

At Ellenbrae Station there is a choice between two camps. After checking which camp the idiots had chosen for the night, we chose the other. Fortunately it looked like the nicer campground with grass, shady trees, and a waterhole and creek nearby.

The amenities were rustic and quaint and I enjoyed the shower.

Amenities block at Ellenbrae Station campground

Soon the campground filled with lots of travellers especially families with kids, towing caravans. Most camps enjoyed campfires that night. Some kids had whips and the whip cracking drew a crowd of other kids. They don’t teach that at school!

The camp was quiet and we slept well after travelling 224 kilometres.

June 27, 2023August 20, 2023

The Gibb Day 4 – Manning Gorge

It is a unique experience to walk out to the Manning Gorge from the campground.

At the river there are two blue plastic tubs for walkers to put their gear into, then swim it across the forty or so metres to the other side. Then you put on your walking shoes and clothes then hike out up the gentle hill along a poorly marked track. It is a five kilometre return walk but feels more like seven.

We set out in the cool morning air with the sun shining through the tall beige spiky grasses. Wildflowers were everywhere, especially a small pompom flower in pink and cream.

The views from the top of the ridge were gorgeous with a flat plateau in the distance that broke into chasms and lowlands.

View from the plateau near Manning Gorge, Gibb River Road, Western Australia

The rock scramble down to the gorge is a challenge for old knees but worth the effort, as the Manning Gorge and waterfall are awesome. Cliffs of bright orange and dark grey were illuminated with the morning sun.

A few other keen single walkers beat us to the pool, but they left and we had the swimming hole to ourselves for a little while.

The water was clear, dark, deep, and refreshing after the walk in. We swam under the waterfall.

One of life’s special pleasures for me (and probably many others) is to glide out from a waterfall on my back, looking up at the water falling, as I rest in a star-shaped float. So sublime and it puts all things into perspective; the insignificance of me.

We did not linger and as we climbed up and over the rocks out of the gorge, many others arrived carrying packs, colourful noodles, and even babies in slings.

Through the tall beige grasses, people asked us “Are we halfway yet?” The return swim across the river was a welcome relief after the walk.

Back at camp we rested then returned to the river for another swim and laze on the rocks.

Our second night at the Manning Gorge campground was spoilt by a neighbouring group of loud, drunk, uncouth, and stupid young men who ranted loudly and obscenely into the dark hours, while the rest of the campers tried to sleep. Eventually they became comatose and we slept.

We did not travel in our car on this day.

June 27, 2023August 20, 2023

The Gibb Day 3 – Bell Gorge and Manning Gorge

The drive from Silent Grove campground to Bell Gorge (Dalmanyi) is about ten kilometres along a flat bumpy track that winds through the scrub with another three creek crossings.

We were first to arrive in the car park, then we walked the rocky well- marked trail for about two kilometres down to the gorge.

Beautiful Bell waterfall, we think, is The Perfect Waterfall. We crossed the fast flowing Bell River then up and over the escarpment, then rock scrambling to the swimming hole below the waterfall.

The water was dark grey, fairly clear, and refreshingly cool, not cold at all. We had the pool to ourselves until we saw the next pair of trekkers peering down from above the waterfall.

Back at the river above the falls I luxuriated in a clear fast flowing spa pool. By then lots of other people had arrived carrying their colourful noodles .

Back at Silent Grove we packed up and drove to the Imintji Community Store for fuel which was $2.80 per litre.

We travelled on the dirt ‘comfortably’ at about 70 km/hr over this section. The ranges were interesting and pretty. One roadside cutting signposted as “Profile of Queen Victoria”.

Our next stop was at Mount Barnett Station Roadhouse. We paid at the busy shop to stay two nights at Manning Gorge campground.

The campground was fairly busy with lots of caravans and camper trailers. We set upon the dust under the scrappy trees then walked to have a look at the Manning River. Our friends @ville2vans were there with their caravans happy to have made it this far.

Orange dust and orange shorts at Manning Gorge campground

The river was a welcome relief after the heat and dust of the road and we had a dip then sat on the rocks in the middle of the stream taking in the scene and letting the little fish exfoliate our feet, while watching the swimmers and trekkers. (I’ll explain this in the next post for Day 4)

That evening we paid $25 each to attend a dance performance by the local aboriginal children. It was held in a sandy part of the dry river bed. With recorded audio of singing, sticks, and didgeridoo the children ran their routines while an aboriginal lady explained the dances over a microphone.

The performances went on and on repeating the same dances and so after about 1 1/2 hours we left while the dancing continued into the night.

We had travelled 115 kms and slept well.

June 26, 2023August 20, 2023

The Gibb Day 2 – Tunnel Creek and Silent Grove

My heart was racing as I stepped into the dark murky water of the underground pool. My head torch making little light in the pitch dark.

Bats the size of magpies darted about in the cavern and I knew freshwater crocodiles lurked in the water.

Wearing only bathers, wet shoes, and a weak head torch I eased into the water and swam blindly across the 20 metres to the dark sandy bank on the other side.

The only thing that gave me confidence to go were the returning trekkers seen only by their torch lights flicking.

We were at Tunnel Creek and this cave system follows a small rocky creek that gathers in large pools inside the cathedral sized caverns. Stalactites hang from the ceiling like chandeliers that the bats careened around.

The walk/wade/swim through the cave is about 400 metres with one opening about halfway along, then finally a tunnel of light opening to a large pool on the other side of this rocky ridge.

After a short break we headed back into the gloom having to swim across the deep pool again.

It was busy with a lot of people having this unique experience, so we felt safe. I didn’t see any crocodiles but one lady told me she had seen their red eyes in her torch light.

I don’t have any photos of this experience because we didn’t take our phones due to the swim.

Day 2 was to be a big one for us. The side trip to Tunnel Creek was 110 kilometres return on a rough dirt road.

We were keen to leave the bitumen and begin the Gibb River Road experience but before that, just after leaving Birdwood Downs Station, we were halted and delayed by a film crew making a movie. So we waited and chatted to the lady holding the stop sign. She said this was the crew that made Mystery Road.

We opted to unhitch and leave our camper trailer at the turnoff to Tunnel Creek; something I felt very uneasy about. We were the first vehicle at the roadside area when we set off for Tunnel Creek. When we returned three hours later we were relieved to see our Dingo still there and parked beside ten or so other parked caravans and trailers.

This was the start of the dirt road and it wasn’t too bad at first travelling at about 70 km/hr.

Fuel stops are one of the main considerations and we thought we might run on empty at the next available fuel stop. You really need to know your vehicle fuel efficiency and monitor your usage. Mick is great at doing all these calculations in his head, but I log everything in the Fuel Australia app.

On the road to Silent Grove (Dulundi) there were three creek crossings and we saw one brown snake on the road.

Silent Grove is in the King Leopold Ranges and we set up amongst the other campers.

A tribe of rowdy kids ran around the camp like a herd of elephants playing spotlight hide-and-seek in the dark while their parents sat around a campfire drinking. Why don’t kids go to school anymore? This “home-schooling” is a lark! As a kid I too ran around campgrounds in the dark with other kids, but my parents always told us not to run around other campsites. And it was only ever during school holidays.

Rain fell overnight, fortunately not enough to turn the red dirt into slush.

We travelled 342 kilometres with the anticipated fuel stop the next day.

June 26, 2023July 8, 2023

The Gibb Day 1 – Birdwood Downs Station

A smooth surface of firm bitumen seduced us at the western end of The Gibb River Road near Derby in Western Australia. We had stopped a few times along the route from Broome with major road reconstruction work after the floods earlier this year.

Birdwood Downs Station is situated on this sealed section of the road and they greet travellers warmly, providing plenty of space and good amenities.

The communal campfire invites travellers to gather and compare notes.

We learned that traffic was delayed on the highway south of Derby due to a small plane crashing and blocking the road. This happened a couple of hours after we went through.

We also heard that the reason the Windjana National Park is closed is because a big saltwater crocodile is there after the wet season. The aboriginal people there didn’t want to have the croc relocated like they do in the Northern Territory. Instead they chose to close the road for the season.

The night at Birdwood Downs Station was very quiet, a sky full of bright stars, and being woken by the farm chickens and peacocks in the morning.

We travelled 247 kilometres and set off early the next day.

June 17, 2023August 20, 2023

Broometime

After our sprint across the continent, it didn’t take long to relax into ‘broometime’.

At the Discovery Parks Holiday Park we were lucky to be allocated a beachside campsite that offers uninterrupted views of Roebuck Bay. And it is an ever changing view as the tide gently flows in and then way out every day revealing sand flats.

Beachfront site at Discovery Parks Broome

The first day we drove out to look at the famous Cable Beach. It was Sunday and Little Nippers had just finished. The beach was full of activity, people enjoying the warm winter weather. The very next day the beach was closed due to a three metre saltwater crocodile seen cruising casually in the water heading north. It was only closed to swimmers for 24 hours.

We felt unhurried about exploring, content to sit in our deck chairs watching the bay. Boats go back and forth, ships, and tenders servicing the moored boats. Jet skis, kayaks, and an Everglades craft whir past.

Close by is the airport and we see all kinds of aircraft, seaplanes, passenger jets small and medium, helicopters, and a military plane.

Mick is periodically tempted by the fish jumping in the shallows in front of us. He spent several days trying to catch one, until the unseen conditions changed and the fish went off the bite.

The pool at this caravan park is resort quality and we have spent some hours lounging, reading, and dipping.

We drove north to the Willie Creek Pearl Farm and joined a tour which was well presented and interesting. The things I didn’t know about pearls! During the boat tour of the creek we saw a crocodile lazing on the banks. It slid into the water as we approached, disappearing into the chalky depths.

By chance some friends are travelling ahead of us in two caravans and we met up in Broome. A mutual friend, Scruff, urged us all to go to Matso’s Brewery to try the Mango Beer and Chilli Beer. Lunch with the group was great, the weird beers not so much. Mick and I went back on another night and had a hot Spicy Margarita.

We went to the town market twice, visited Chinatown, climbed around on the colourful rocks at Gantheaume Point, looked with scepticism at the dinosaur footprints, saw the sunset at Cable Beach, and walked beside the iconic camel train.

Broome has provided a welcome easy holiday in warm weather. I feel rested.

The Gibb River Road beckons. Our friends have gone ahead already and we might catch up with them again somewhere.

Travellers arrive in the caravan park who have obviously just completed the 660 kilometre dirt road, as their vehicles are coated in red dust and their faces have an expression of jubilation and relief. Mick has spoken to a few and feels as prepared as he can be.

The Peninsula Development Road in Cape York of Far North Queensland looms large in our minds, a memory that is clear and holds residual anguish.

Still the rough road is before us, and if we want to experience the vistas, waterfalls, and waterholes of The Kimberley, this is the way.

June 8, 2023August 20, 2023

This is what we came for …

After kilometres of endless desert, flat plains, red dirt, brown scrub, and feral goats, we arrive at Yardie Homestead near Exmouth.

Yardie Homestead, Western Australia on Exmouth Peninsula

The Ningaloo Reef runs parallel to the Cape Range National Park of the Exmouth peninsula.

At Turquoise Bay I put on fins, snorkel, and mask, put my face in the water and stare into the face of a silver fish.

I push off into the current and glide out to the reef just ten metres or so from the white sand beach. There are fish everywhere of every shape and colour. The small iridescent purple fish are my favourite. There are large rainbow coloured Wrass and long slender pale green trumpeter fish. With each sideways glance a new variety is spotted. I drift with the strong current then hop out, walk back along the sand, then repeat. It is beautiful and the water temperature is perfect.

It’s busy with tourists everywhere. Every type of travel mode can be seen; from the supersized truck utes with supersized caravans, to intrepid cyclists with lightweight tent. Swags are popular, but I prefer to be up off the ground. Our camper trailer is fine for our needs so far.

The day before we drove out to Monkey Mia, paid the fee to park, missed the feeding time event (thankfully), walked out the jetty and saw a pod of dolphins up close as they swam by. It is a popular tourist hotspot now, ruined by overuse and commerciality.

We stopped at Shell Beach of Shark Bay on the way back to the main highway. The beach there is white from all the tiny white shells.

The bad weather has gone, now the sky is blue. At night the stars and planets are in high definition; it’s nice to be away from the light pollution.

June 5, 2023August 20, 2023

Crossing the continent

We crossed the Australian continent in six days leaving our home beside Port Phillip Bay in south east Victoria and arriving at the Indian Ocean at Jurien Bay in Western Australia, 3,896 kilometres later.

Indian Ocean at Jurien Bay Western Australia

Only once did we stay in a caravan park and it was awful. Whilst every other night was spent in roadside free camps.

Mick set up the camp toilet and shower, while I battled with trying to cook on gas outside.

Roadside camp on the Nullarbor Plain, South Australia

Despite wild wet weather we are snug and dry under the canvas tent top, and so far the tent fly has hung on.

The road trains are constant, long, and travel fast. At night they roar past the sleeping travellers along the route.

The Nullarbor plain begins at Ceduna in South Australia and ends 1,200 kilometres later at Norseman in Western Australia.

We stopped to gaze in awe at the cliffs of the Great Australian Bight.

The Great Australian Bight, South Australia

Finally at Norseman we turn right at the first intersection only to be immediately stopped by police at a roadside random breath test.

We saw no wildlife; no kangaroos, no emus, no camels. Not even any interesting birds, apart from one eagle.

The costliest fuel was at the Nullarbor Roadhouse at $2.66 per litre. At Eucla it was $2.38 per litre. Mostly it’s been about $1.89. So we spent $930 on fuel for the continent crossing. And we averaged 633 kilometres per day.

Fuel stop at Nullarbor Roadhouse, South Australia

Today we passed the point in our travels back in March of 2020 (the turnoff to Cue), where we had to turn around due to the border closures.

The weather so far has been awful, constant grey skies, gusty winds, and rain. We hope for warmer weather and blue sky as we head north.

May 18, 2023May 18, 2023

Mick and Sue’s Aussie Adventure Part Two

Mick and Sue’s Aussie Adventure resumes with Part Two of our Big Lap of Australia.

What began in December of 2019 and ended abruptly in April of 2021, we will pick up again. The stories from Part One are listed here.

We have changed our rig totally. We traded in the Triton for an Isuzu MUX that has more power. And we sold the Royal Flair Aussie Mate for a lighter rig: a Skamper Kamper Dingo. We are sacrificing the luxury and convenience of the caravan with a lighter tent top camper trailer. It will be interesting to see how we like this change.

We aim to visit the places we had initially planned to visit in 2020 but missed out on due to the pandemic which caused border closures and a forced change of plans. We are heading for the Northwest of Australia.

Once again, I am using the Wikicamps app to plot and log our trip. However, experience informs us that the best laid plans can often go astray.

It took a whole year to finally get the repair work done on the caravan. We are not sure if this was because of supply issues during the pandemic, or slack attitude of the repairer, or lack of follow-up by the insurer. Or perhaps a mixture of all three. In the end the repair work did not cost much. We were happy to move the caravan on once the repair was completed and we had retrieved it. We hope the new owners enjoy the caravan as we did.

It also took a whole year to get delivery of our new car; supply and demand issues we hear. In the meantime, we enjoy precious time spent with our family, granddaughters and friends.

This trip will not be an extended lifestyle choice, but a winter escape and exploration of some beautiful and warmer parts of this country. And we go with experience and knowledge, rather than as newbies.

I plan to write blog posts about our travels here, however I am aware of the lack of internet access in some of these remote places, so some of the posts will be added after the events. And we can be followed on Instagram @mickandsues

July 11, 2021July 12, 2021

Stories from Mick & Sue’s Aussie Adventure

Mick and I set out on our exploration of Australia in December 2019 and visited all states except for the Australian Capital Territory and Tasmania. During this time when the pandemic caused havoc around the world, we hopped borders when we could. After seventeen months living in our caravan we were ready to head home.

Here are the stories from our adventure.